Scooterotica

just rebuilt my standard 225 engine,when i kick it over, the first two kicks turn the engine over, but the next two or three kicks,the pedal just pushes down , like when you kick it over and pull the clutch in, the thing is i havent got the cable connected up yet.
took it apart this evening and thought the kickstart shaft might be running against the top plate, so took it all apart, measured up a load of steel plates (and they varied from 1.45mm up to 1.69mm) and used the thinest of the bunch,covered the kickstart shaft end in engineers blue bolted it all back together, kick it over a few times seemed fine, took casing off, no rub marks on the "blue". refitted everything ,filled with oil, Exactly the sane as before, 3rd kick and the clutch feels like it`s engaging.
What am i over looking. clutch type is non GP.

when this happens how do you get it working again?? do you have to stip it or does it just start working agin when you try it a while later???? reason i ask is cos i have similar prob since rebuild and found that piston in kickstart shaft just sticks in and when i try a couple of times it sudenly pops back into action and engages. is there any resistance atall on lever when this happens?? if no resistance then you prob got same thing as i have,if resistance then your right its in the clutch,have to strip and inspect thoroughly.

it could be that you need to clean out the grooves in the cork plates if they havnt been cut in properly, it gives the oil that's between the plates somewhere to go.

Might Also be one of the many other faults that afflict lammy clutches.

It just starts turning the engine over but then again 3 kicks and it feels like i`ve pulled the clutch in. doing my nut in !

Sorted, kickstart piston return pin was the culprit.

J1MS wrote:it could be that you need to clean out the grooves in the cork plates if they havnt been cut in properly, it gives the oil that's between the plates somewhere to go.

Funny you say that JIMS, I do that on every motor I put together. Sort of like a signature if you like. Adds about 3/4 an hour labor to the rebuild that isn't booked though
However if you read the Wester tuning book, he says that makes no diffierence. I say b@11@x to that , it has to make a difference. If you add up the amount of space there is involved in the grooveage, it's a lot, and when those grooves(oil dispertion grooves) are full of cork, there is no way a clutch can bite properly.
Perhaps this may be why some peoples four plate clutches work very well, and some have to go up to a 7 plate, because some are cleaning their plates and some are not.
Glad you found the prob. Yamlam.

dirtyhandslopez wrote:

J1MS wrote:it could be that you need to clean out the grooves in the cork plates if they havnt been cut in properly, it gives the oil that's between the plates somewhere to go.

Funny you say that JIMS, I do that on every motor I put together. Sort of like a signature if you like. Adds about 3/4 an hour labor to the rebuild that isn't booked though
However if you read the Wester tuning book, he says that makes no diffierence. I say b@11@x to that , it has to make a difference. If you add up the amount of space there is involved in the grooveage, it's a lot, and when those grooves(oil dispertion grooves) are full of cork, there is no way a clutch can bite properly.
Perhaps this may be why some peoples four plate clutches work very well, and some have to go up to a 7 plate, because some are cleaning their plates and some are not.
Glad you found the prob. Yamlam.

i use these from INDIA yes thats right there very well made and ive used them in an engine which had a rapido clissic top end a race rapide and then a ts1 fitted same clutch and gearbox same plates for well over 3 yrs scoot was my daily transport i also fitted alot of different carbs and pipes on all top ends it was a real test bed i used standard springs with an old set of vespa ones over the top and a yamaha lever with nylon lined cable i never had any slippage even 2 up which is more than can be said for the 5 plate that i tried the grove area is longer so more oil can go in there and its thrown outwards by the design these plates cosrt in the region off £5 from fanatic scooters in bristol and if im replacing a clutch on anyones scooter i use these as long as they have a 4 plate

What steels do you use with that clutch Steve. I have one of those that came with steels but they look stamped out of sheet metal

I use the indian 8 pound ones and they work great.... maybe is cause my scooter is a slug compared to all you Englanders' beasts

I like the look of them Shocky, the angle for throwing the oil out looks good. Still looks like there could be a bit of material removed from the grooves, could make them even better.