no front lights - aaaagghhh

[druist]

Have re-crimped the wires in my headset as a very kind member said they were shi*t but he was right and very helpful. I was also forced due to back brake light no working but front ok. Sorted with the help of the kind person.

Trouble is my front small light and main light wont go on. There is a charge going to them as when the common touched to headset it sparked. I have a junction box which uses a yellow from the CDI aswell as 3 greens, brown/purple (hard to tell), red and all are in colour marked points. The yellow doesnt have a colour code so i put is on its own - is that the problem?

Also changed the front junction thing in the headset to a more robust one and wondered if that could be it, but it was working fine before. I cannot see anything different but something must be - its as though it just isnt completing the circuit eg live or common is missing - especially when it sparked when touching the metal on the headset.

I am running out of time my mot is due now. Any help would be appreciated. Its a 1978 sil made for uk market with electonic ignition put in in the 80's

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/druist/ScooterLigjting# Yes it isnt perfect i know. I havent got a good one of the junction box. a pre-owner did an amazing job of using different colours just to confuse and easily confused person.

[dapper]

Hi Drew, me again. What colours are coming from the handle bar switch to the headset? Should be a red, a blue and a yellow/orange. The yellow/orange is the common feed to the switch and depending on the position of the dip switch determines whether the headlamp is on main or dip. Make sure that your headset junction bulbholder has a good earth and that the two brass strips are making good contact with the bottom of the headlamp bulb connections. The brass strips can be bent slightly so that they make a good contact. From your thread you say that there is a charge going to them as it sparked when accidentally touched to earth, so that would lead me to beieve that it is either a prro connection or poor/missing earth. Glad you got the rear sorted out.

[druist]

M, thanks for the reply m8, thats two pints and probably chasers too. I am not near scoot at present so can only rely on pics. I bent the contacts in anyway and am sure they are touching ok, the "side light" (cant remember its name) also fails to work. I double eartheded with one black lead on the earth side to the screw that holds the handlebars down.

Could the junction at the rear be anything to do with this? As this is an unknown variable. It has no marking for yellow (one which comes from the CDI) at present it is on its own. The others are colour coded but with scootrs ignition there is a difference which i posted on the link but doesnt say about junction in that or stickys in relation to the yellow.

I will check your question when i get home. In the meantime does it matter if i earth from the brass earth on the side of the light holder to where i am earthing now?

DOES ANYONE have a similar junction box - its a 1978/9 GP150 Sil (no lugs on the handlebars for indicators) a plastic fan flywheel electronic ignition and to add to it all a scootrs ignition and a variatronic like thing called an Apollo 8000

[coaster]

Hi Drew, I can't help thinking you are over complicating your problem by trying to rely on the wiring colours. I think at best, where Indian scooters are concerned the wiring colours should be regarded with a healthy dose of suspision

The important thing to remeber is that the wiring on a lambretta especially an AC one is very simple, it only looks complicated because of all the junction boxes. That live feed you have in the heradset needs to be connected to one side of your side light (I don't think you need to worry about that for the MOT but I could be wrong). That feed also needs to go into the ignition switch. One of the leads out of the ignitiuon switch will be live when the key is turned fully clockwise but off in all other positions, this feed needs to go to the dip switch and as Dapper said, this should be the yellow on the switch. The other 2 wires from the dip switch are you main and dip beam feads and need to connected to the relevant connectors on the bulb holder connector block. Make sure the earth connection on the bulb holder is good at both ends an all should work fine.

You might find it easier (and quieter) to do your tests by disconnecting the main feed from the regulator (usually but not always brown) and connect the positive terminal of a battery charger to it and the negative terminam to the frame so that the loom is fed with DC. You can then experiment away to your hearts content without driving ypour neighbours mad

Another thought, if it makes it easier, don't bother puting the feed for the lights through the ignition switch, all that will happen is that your lights will be permanently on which I think can only be a good thing, I ride with mine on all the time ....Just a thought

Good luck my son

[druist]

Colin, you really are a star . I see where you are coming from and how it now relates. Thanks for explaining in a way i can get. I was just concerned i can damage the cdi/reg by putting the wrong lead in the wrong place. Will let you know how it goes.

BTW the spray job is still good, few bits hear and there, certainly should add a couple more coats when i get a mo, but fully confident in 2k prep n spray now, took long enough. same with this, takes me a while but it expands my knowledge a lot more. i have to have the full picture to get a part if you catch my drift.