Scooterotica

hi guys , thought id share a few pictures of the work that mick abbeys being doing for me , absolute genius and his work is not to be underated , ive seen the work of some so called scooter "tuners" were opening up the exhaust port is all they do !!!! anyway back to the imola , welded casings by myself , then hours of sculpting the casings to look original , then off to mick who lowered the porting , opened up the transfers to the max , and adding three boost ports including two that wrap round the barrel the same as the rb !!!! watch out ts1 boys my little imola will eat you for breakfast!!!

GREAT work mick....as always...
thats exactly WHY mick abbey is our scooterotica approved tuner.....

I`m still shocked by the 22.5hp and 20 ft-lbs at around 6000 rpm that Charlie Edmunds extracted from the Imola in the the Scootering smallblock test, it`ll be interesting to see what Mick`s does on the dyno

you have to see the workmanship in this barrel and casings !!!! the transfer area must be something like 250% bigger and This is only the start , build it up dyno it , run the summer then straight to plan b ...................................... cut through the barrel and wrap 2 auxillary exhaust ports either side of the main one , also jl4 , 7 plate clutch etc , oh and by the way if anybody was fitting a jap conrod what crank would they use a maz or mec and what rod as i want to keep the stoke the same .....rd400 rod ?

micks number is 07802896103 , give him a call if you want the best !!!!!!!

rocho68 wrote:, oh and by the way if anybody was fitting a jap conrod what crank would they use a maz or mec and what rod as i want to keep the stoke the same .....rd400 rod ?

Not quite sure what you mean by keeping the stroke the same, RD400 rod is 115 mm. I'd use a SIL GP200 crank, they look crap but by all accounts they're very good if you use a Yam rod with a top quality big end bearing (RD500).

corrado wrote:

rocho68 wrote:, oh and by the way if anybody was fitting a jap conrod what crank would they use a maz or mec and what rod as i want to keep the stoke the same .....rd400 rod ?

Not quite sure what you mean by keeping the stroke the same, RD400 rod is 115 mm. I'd use a SIL GP200 crank, they look crap but by all accounts they're very good if you use a Yam rod with a top quality big end bearing (RD500).

The stroke would stay the same as standard... 58mm. The conrod would be longer though!

rocho68 wrote:you have to see the workmanship in this barrel and casings !!!! the transfer area must be something like 250% bigger and This is only the start , build it up dyno it , run the summer then straight to plan b ...................................... cut through the barrel and wrap 2 auxillary exhaust ports either side of the main one , also jl4 , 7 plate clutch etc , oh and by the way if anybody was fitting a jap conrod what crank would they use a maz or mec and what rod as i want to keep the stoke the same .....rd400 rod ?

micks number is 07802896103 , give him a call if you want the best !!!!!!!

surely your port timings are built around the conrod lenght and stroke a longer rod will alter these and even if you use a piston with a lower compression height to compensate you may have add a packer or recess the head and cut the bottom of the piston to suit which to me sounds like a ball ache better to decide what piston stroke rod before tuning

rocho68 wrote:hi guys , thought id share a few pictures of the work that mick abbeys being doing for me , absolute genius and his work is not to be underated , ive seen the work of some so called scooter "tuners" were opening up the exhaust port is all they do !!!! anyway back to the imola , welded casings by myself , then hours of sculpting the casings to look original , then off to mick who lowered the porting , opened up the transfers to the max , and adding three boost ports including two that wrap round the barrel the same as the rb !!!! watch out ts1 boys my little imola will eat you for breakfast!!!

Thank you Lee for the mention, let's hope it goes well and does what it says on the tin
as lee has said there will be more to come out of this cylinder later on in the year I will be adding 2 extra boost ports either side of the main ex port to give more port area with out raising the port any more and will help give more torqe without the expence of reving its nutts off

Mick

just was worried that my new mec race crank wasnt up to the job and thought that by changing the rod and welding would be a better option ? if the crank is ok would you weld it before it goes in as some of my mates have had serious issues with twisting although not with the mec type ?

welding cant hurt....as long as it dosnt pull out of true....so worth a re-check afterwards.....after saying that i havnt heard anything bad about mec cranks....