Scooterotica

I'm happy you got it revving after doing what I suggested a couple of weeks ago.
Alignment will help but expect the limiter problem to return after a few hundred miles, I maintain that the pickup quality was the problem and is still a spanner in the works that will raise its head again if its still the same one.

Time will tell

I've gone for one of the external pickups, hoping that will be a better solution.

The stator I have is one of the re-worked SIL ones & I think the pick is still SIL as it has the K2 hologram sticker on it. Indian, Chinese, perhaps they're both as good/bad as each other. As you say, time will tell

GeorgeS wrote:..............All the bearings and related stuff went in fine

I just started building mine (last of the current batch) at the weekend and decided to 'dry' build the bottom end to check that I have 'relieved' the crank case enough for clearance of the 62mm crank. BUT, I'm having a mare getting the crank to pull through the FAG drive bearing, I normally use the drive flange and bolt to pull the cranks home but this is seriously tight. I stopped with it only half way home as I was concerned about stripping the thread As it was a dry build I didn't bother fitting the drive flange so I suspect the bearing will push out with the crank and will need pulling off with a puller

coaster wrote:

GeorgeS wrote:..............All the bearings and related stuff went in fine

I just started building mine (last of the current batch) at the weekend and decided to 'dry' build the bottom end to check that I have 'relieved' the crank case enough for clearance of the 62mm crank. BUT, I'm having a mare getting the crank to pull through the FAG drive bearing, I normally use the drive flange and bolt to pull the cranks home but this is seriously tight. I stopped with it only half way home as I was concerned about stripping the thread As it was a dry build I didn't bother fitting the drive flange so I suspect the bearing will push out with the crank and will need pulling off with a puller

you need to warm the bearing with hot air gun and wipe the crank journal with some light oil. Usually they push straight in by hand.

Thanks Rich, I'll try that when I get back to it at the weekend

coaster wrote:Thanks Rich, I'll try that when I get back to it at the weekend

Update, warming the bearing and chilling the crank didn't make any difference but a little oil on the bolt thread and under the bolt head did the trick and it wound in fine. Not bother with the seals but I did rotate the crank as mentioned by GeorgeS. Leakdown revealed porous welds on the BGM exhaust flange which I finally resolved after several attempts (Most of my welds at porous ).

It's up and running now but just wondering how yours is going Geoge, what carb and jetting did you go with? I've had to stick a 30PWK on mine to get it running until I can get a PHBH.

Good to hear you've made progress, Coaster.

Not a lot to report from my side, still having some ignition problems and have fitted an external pick-up to try and solve things, but not really have the time or weather to get out and finish the job off. To cap it all my old lady has been bending my ear about spending too much time in the garage so I've had to start some decorating!

Rich_T supplied me with a 30mm PHBH with the kit & it was getted the same as his GT200's. When it was running on a known-good borrowed stator it felt really good, but I've not really thought about it more until I get these electrical niggles sorted.

Thanks for that, I'll probably go with a TS1 set up as a starting point when I get the phbh sorted (bits missing when I dug it out ) The PWK on my TS1 a while back and jetted to suit an Ancilotti Clubman. Maybe a little weak on the pilot. Had a pootle up the drive in first and it feels very willing.

Bit of an update. I've ended up putting the Kheper CDI on the bench for a while as I just couldn't get it to work with my stator (both regular pickup and external pickup), so now running with a cheap Scootopia CDI & external pickup at 19° and it runs fine. I think I'll go for a BGM setup at some point & try the Kheper again.

Managed to split my carb rubber yesterday, luckily I was visiting Screwfix at the time so bought a roll of gaffer tape & managed to strap up the carb & rubber manifold well enough to get me home, but it did highlight the urgency to fit offset cones if using this kit (as advised by Rich_T). I knew the reed manifold was touching the frame, but looking again I see that the rubber manifold can also get pinched & I think the frame has pressed on the jubilee clip causing it to split the rubber. Plus I think I over-tightened the clip.

I've had some offset cones on the bench for a while & I didn't want to pay Casa prices for their new engine bolt so tried this:



That's an M6 tapped hole & M6 stud with a groove ground in the top for a screwdriver. The stud wound in ok & I ground off the excess so can still get a socket on there. I might have used a split-pin but don't have any lying around of the right size. Still, it does the job which is to prevent the bar from rotating when tightening up & moving the cones in the frame.

I've now got 1-to-2 mm between the reed valve & frame.

Nice job that

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk