Scooterotica

Glad to see the debate on this one again so much so I have dug out and refitted the one I made 1st time round.
With all the controversy over it, the first time my series 1 would not start it was off and of course, it still wouldn't start with it off either, (something unrelated) I didn't refit it. In my case my series 1 always started well, so again the doubt was there, it has however with it off started 1st kick or been a sod. I know my plug is getting a bit oily round town after up jetting after holing a piston so yes I should be looking at this.
For most, Lambretta electrics is a step to far, the basic logic of the devise, I believe is sound. Its not related in any way to any old fashioned self tappers in HT leads, its using the reserve capacity of the CDI and bumping up the voltage of the Capacitor discharge, I would expect the only risk to be to the inbuilt capacitor on the CDI. (So I wouldn't use a cheap one that has maybe been made to a price and had this extra capacity reduced) The improvement in discharge output should be greater at lower revs and starting. Its never going to make it go faster and was never claimed.
My only comment on this new design would be that it should be potted into the CDI to improve its reliability and prevent water penetration, something that can be done after testing and happy.
I am in no way connected to this guy but he has shared his thoughts and after telling us all how to do it 2 years later he has got someone to produce it in an easy fit, idiot proof way, that I'm sure some will still F** up. (Ask MB, Nothing works 100% on every scooter, with every home trained expert mechanic)
We have some guys on here with far more knowledge than me but in my case it was worth the 2 quid it cost me to make one.

Thanks for sharing Monty, wise words

And yes, I am trying to have the next version encapsulated into plastic/resina.
However so far there is already more than 10000 kilometers accumulated over various people (4000km on my side), and not a single issue with this new version.

Cheers,

Sorry for not updating you guys !
The new version is online for more than a year now, with plastic encapsulation !


There is also a new version with adjustable timing curves called Smart Booster.


All info on www.kytronik.com
And if you have facebook, you can also follow us here: https://www.facebook.com/kytronik

Dazza wrote:I'm still using mine with no problems so far...

Still connected as was back when I posted this...no failures ...but god knows if it's actually doing something

After extensive testing over the last few months we are pleased to say we are the first in the UK to stock the KyTronic 'Smart Booster Advance box' because........ it simply works and offers the best pre set bolt on variable ignition advance curves for both Lambretta and Vespas Electronic ignitions. These can be set to improve standard bikes, mild tuned or touring kitted bikes and full Road or Race bikes. These are simple to fit, simple to adjust and will have a built in curve to suit any over tuned peaky road bike and offer improvement others simply can not offer. Our own rubber boot fits to help keep water out and hide the 'Smart booster' We're working on our own easy read fitting instructions which will be on the Tech-Site soon. And at £75 they are cheaper than others on the market.

http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/s ... u0814.html

Great idea. Still have yet to see some dyno graphs of back to back runs or curve maps (8 pages here and 2 on MV). I think the concept is brilliant and the final assembly looks very well done.

I think it's great MBD is the uk distributer for you, they have one of (if not the best) names in the business. That lends A LOT of creditability to your product.

I'm not knocking you down I just want to see more than "I think it feels better" before I shell out a buch of $


Any racers using it?

I will try and get some dyno charts. They do have an effect on the curves in the way you would expect.
You can overlay the curves of an engine with static timing of 24 degrees and of 16 degrees and get a hybrid curve by fitting the box.

A lot of the benefits are hard to measure like temperatures etc.

There's diagrams of the curve settings on his website

rosscla wrote:There's diagrams of the curve settings on his website

I saw the curve settings and it def looks like a good thing. My point is unless it can be proven to make more power than a static ignition then what's the point. It reminds me of the people who put magnets on their fuel tank and then swear it changes the ions in the gas to burn better but never show the proof.

The theory is sound, retard the ignition at specific RPMs to achieve the most power and longetivity in a motor. With the amount of dyno's in the UK I'd think it would have been in post number two here.

Grumpy225 wrote:

rosscla wrote:There's diagrams of the curve settings on his website

I saw the curve settings and it def looks like a good thing. My point is unless it can be proven to make more power than a static ignition then what's the point. It reminds me of the people who put magnets on their fuel tank and then swear it changes the ions in the gas to burn better but never show the proof.

The theory is sound, retard the ignition at specific RPMs to achieve the most power and longetivity in a motor. With the amount of dyno's in the UK I'd think it would have been in post number two here.

It doesn't make more power than a static ignition but you get the best of both world.

Running at 23 degrees makes the engine easier to kick over and gives good low down power but with today's fuels the engine gets too hot. Running at 17-19 degrees you get good power higher up but the engine is harder to kick.

With the advance retard systems you get the best of both worlds.

If you dyno an engine with static timing set at 24 then 16 degrees then you get two different shaped power curves.
With one of these boxes you get a curve that is a blend of the two.

We are playing around on the MB dyno to try and quantify all the benefits, we are connecting multiple EGT sensors and Air fuel ratios sensors to one engine.

What we have learned is that on an inertia dyno the engine doesn't get hot enough to check this kind of stuff. You need a loading dyno to simulate road conditions.