R1 Shock Snapped !

[soulsurfer]

I'll send Mike a general arrangement drawing to post if you don't understand where I'm coming from.

Cheers Richard, got the drawings in pdf, anyone know how can I post them here, or can you send in jpg?

[druist]

This is probabaly why the Clauss Studio solid engine mount urethane bushes have since been proven to be too tough for the job.? and maybe now the converted rear yam shocks?

Whats wrong with the Clauss Studio engine mounts ? Have just fitted a set to the motor i´m rebuiliding....

I bought some from there and they snapped whilst putting them in, they told me it was a one off bad batch

[Knowledge]

Here's a thought on how to check your R1 shock for correct fitting.

Support the back of the scooter with a block of wood under the number plate and remove the shock. Refit the shock at the top only and tighten the nut as usual. Now try rotatng the shock around this pivot point. It must rotate by at least 10degrees, but it must move relatively easy to do. You might need to back-off the nut in order to achieve this movement, or apply some suitable lubricant.

Now remove the shock, and refit to just the lower mount. Again, check for at least 10 degrees of easy movement and back off the nut is necessary.

Now remove and refit the shock at both ends, and fit the nuts as per your experiment. After this, you have proved that the shock can rotate as part of it's operation.

That's not a bad approach, is it? I think Nylocs would be wise.

Martin

[RinB]

Here's a thought on how to check your R1 shock for correct fitting.

Support the back of the scooter with a block of wood under the number plate and remove the shock. Refit the shock at the top only and tighten the nut as usual. Now try rotatng the shock around this pivot point. It must rotate by at least 10degrees, but it must move relatively easy to do. You might need to back-off the nut in order to achieve this movement, or apply some suitable lubricant.

Now remove the shock, and refit to just the lower mount. Again, check for at least 10 degrees of easy movement and back off the nut is necessary.

Now remove and refit the shock at both ends, and fit the nuts as per your experiment. After this, you have proved that the shock can rotate as part of it's operation.

That's not a bad approach, is it? I think Nylocs would be wise.

Martin

I think thats a simple check Martin
Then if tight just fettle the spacer outer I think would be best

[Knowledge]

Agreed, but at least this test will tell you if you need to do anything or not. Some people might be worrying unnecessarily.

[twin]

i got my bushes remade to 1m/m wider than the shock , so the shock can pivot,
as it wud not work as a lammy one,
where the bushes split i put a spacer in,

[shocky]

there are small end bearings that fit
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p9593/ ... _info.html
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p8057/ ... _info.html
both bearings are approx 2 mm shorter than the lug hole so the nut would need to be left slightly loose again
ian re the wear i use a form of nylon in my bushes now and with all the coppa slip i dont think wear will be a problem but if it is my bushes are only £5 a set as a replacement to anyone who has had a shock of me i DONT HAVE ANY AT THE MOMENT

im using bearings now as stated went out yesterday did 40 miles and all seems fine i greased the bearings and backed the nylock of slightly, when i push down on the scooter you can see the shock pivot ,i dont use the lammy very much nowadays and 40 miles is all my left wrist can take ..... so long term i dont know what the bearing will do to the shock or the pivot

[byron]

just removed my R1 shock to do some other work, so put it on just one side at a time as per Martin's test. I found I could tighten it to 15lb/ft and it would still rotate sufficiently easily. That is tight enough, with some nylocs or threadlock.
This with nylon bushes that I have slightly enlarged the id as they were just too tight.

[chiggy03]

I read through this and David blythes threads with horror a couple of days ago, I was at the Eurorally and saw the guys broken shock and, after speaking with Smiffy (RinB) thought I'd better do some investigating - I don't want to be selling anything with safety issues....... and I've come to a few conclusions.
All the snapped shocks had brass bushes, there is no "give" in these and they don't flex with the scoot, like the engine mounts do - so this will be a contributing factor. Obviously the nylon has got some flex but I'm looking into finding something a bit softer still to use, but wont just fall apart, in the meantime I'll only be doing nylon/ptfe bushes........
The side to side movement seems to be a problem, I'll look at trying to find an insert to compensate, although I don't honestly think this is a contributing factor to the snapping shocks.
The majority of these shocks are just bolted on and left without checking the compression and rebound. When the spring is off and you have these on the hardest settings, the bleedin' thing doesn't even move!!! When I sell my shocks I always put them on the softest settings and advise people to go from there.......

As Knowledge says about checking the alignment, i have found, the majority of shocks are badly aligned so need shimming on the engine mount to put them in line, so something we all should check......

Ready to go to bed now so will add to this Tomorrow and answer questions.........

Cheers, Chiggy

[chiggy03]

Also sorting some nyloc half nuts locally, hopefull to supply within the next week.

I'll keep y'all posted.

Chiggy