Scooterotica

Hello,
first I have to apologize, I did not post updates on this forum, but you will get anything I found out right now.

The raffle is still running, the engine will be raffled at the "LCD Sommerfest" rally in Kulmbach near Nürnberg on the 4th of May.

Tickets are available @ 1 € each.

All pictures from engine build, dyno graphs, etc. can be found on facebook, please visit http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 863&type=3. I would have to resize all pics to post them here, sorry.

My thoughts about the Supermonza Kit after many weekends of testing, pros and cons (unported kit, all dyno graphs shown are with a totally untouched cylinder, ports in casing matched to cylinder):

The SM is the most powerful kit out of the box, both hp and torque are above all other kits now on the market. It has it´s power low down, very low down the rev range. The power band is not really wide, or in other words, the kit does not rev a lot after the early peak power. It pulls like a train with massive torque and will suit many people riding styles, but not all. It is a bit low in power before going into pipe but considering it does this at around 4350 rpm you don´t feel it on the road.

Graph one: SM Kit, SM exhaust, 30mm Dellorto CS carb, jetted as suggested
I never believed the 30mm Dellorto carb is the one and only holy thing, got slagged for it, well...here we have another comparisation: Dello 30 vs. Mikuni TMX 35 vs. Mikuni TMX 38. Dello carb as suggested, on the Mikunis just the main jet was changed, hence the not ideal running lower down with the 35.

Graph two and the clear winner is the 38mm carb, bettering the Dellorto by 2,3 bhp, 1,5Nm, same low down behaviour and it widens the power band by 500 revs

What amazing power so low down the rev range! These are the sorts of RPMs that people are happy to do on road motors, making this quite remarkable!

Adam

For the exhaust test I used the 38 mm carb. Exhausts tested on this day:

Supermonza exhaust (italian version) vs. Franspeed Race vs. Ludwig und Scherer Tourist vs. Ludwig und Scherer Reiseleiter. The latter 3 exhausts are all TS1 pipes NOT made for the portarea of the SM Kit, but the Ludwig and Scherer pipes have a bigger Diameter at the flange then the average TS1 exhaust. All TS1 exhausts, especially the L+S ones, need more blowdown lead time, which (strangely for me) the auxiliary ex ports couldn´t compensate. This will be interesting later on the ported kit..the Reiseleiter, which usually gives top power and a wide band doesn´t work with this original setup.

graph 3, SM (red), Franspeed race (blue and green), Tourist (black), Reiseleiter (yellow)

here is a comparisation between a road ported TS1 with Franspeed race pipe (but 35mm carb, fixed ignition) and the untouched SM (38mm carb, varitronic) with the Franspeed race pipe on the same dyno

graph 4: SM franspeed (red, blue) and TS1 Franspeed (green)

will upload more graphs soon..

SM reed block with carbon reeds vs. SM reed block with fiber petals
SM head vs. MMW head

and more measurements, impressions..

Thanks Michael, this is really good info

I'm looking forward to more results

How do we buy tickets

yes thanks again Michael

great info and work your putting in there
,id be tempted to try a smaller bore ex stub with venturi on the triple port layout ,should make the exhaust into a better carburetor that way

Bofs wrote:How do we buy tickets

What he said how do we ? :freak:

thx for nice words

The kit for auction came with carbon reeds, a kit a friend of me bought came with fiber reeds. I thought the carbon reeds will give better top end and fiber reeds better low down power. How wrong. The carbon reeds topped the fiber ones in the best case (cold engine vs cold engine) nearly 1 bhp over the whole rev range. In the last hmm maybe 400 revs the fiber reeds were a little bit better, but not really affecting the performance.

Next on the agenda was a swap of heads. Gravedigger from MMW did two heads for the kit. I tried the one from these two with lower compression first. See pics on FB site for comparisation of the heads, they are 50% squish area - more squish area, msv and higher compression then the standard head as well. Power kicked in a tad earlier than the SM head and torque is now 37,7 Nm or 27,29 lb/ft @ 5950 rpm. Power also raised to 35,5 bhp @ around 6500 rpm - hold on - this run was with the 30mm carb and L+S Tourist exhaust. On the downside, the band was shortened a bit.

Just because it was on hand and without big interest to the public, I tried a Genesis Big Air CNC carb from US-based sled tuners PSI. This carb has a triangular venturi, making it behave like a 30mm carb at low throttle opening and a 38 mm carb on fully opened slide. I was in fact VERY impressed by the performance from this carb as it added 1 bhp+ over the whole rev range. It is a carb with no jets, main jet is an adjustable power jet type, the needle can be raised/lowered with an allen key from the outside, I love it. Downside is the price of ~1100 USD, making it maybe a choice for racers when everything else is tried and done.

I will post both graphs asap.

Trying to remove the head for the next swap, one of the short bolts on top was loosening it´s threads, so now I know why CE changes them in the UK sold kits

Tightening the short bolts at the bottom is not an easy task, but we got around it now. With the kit comes a spanner with narrowed sides, so you can get into the very tight place. maybe. Step one: bin this spanner, it will break Go for a quality (!) ring spanner (hope this is the right word) with narrow sidewall, check that both studs are drilled deep enough (or you won´t get it out after tightening) and that´s it. It´s just a bit tricky, but if you can properly fit a TS1 kit you will also have no problems with the SM. Squish clearance with the original head is advised to set at 1,1mm, for this head design this is safe. As is the jetting suggestion for the 30mm VHSA CS carb, even without an airfilter this is very safe, i would run it leaner on the road. Saying this, I don´t like the term "safe jetting" as this usually translates into "too rich setting", which it is at my altitude anyhow.

The kit, as it comes supplied and if you follow all suggestions should be quite reliable - as far as I can say without testing it on the road for many many miles. But the whole picture, from head design, ignition setting, carb jetting and big exhaust flange diameter makes this kit (and i think this is the intention) "fool proof" IF you follow everything (!)
Fine tuning without doing modifications to the kit will affect power and torque positively without changing the tractor-pulling performance, but you will need more feel for your engine.