Scooterotica

red wrote:Do they still fit to the elongated cylinder head nut?

yes ... though you could fit more than one long nut if you wanted

red wrote:Do they still fit to the elongated cylinder head nut?

Any pictures of this view?

Might just get an old one and cut it to fit

thats what ive done Red

Just been following this thread with interest. My guess is that the Allstyles head cowling mod must have had some input from Geoff Stephens, whom as most people know was the person who tuner and engineer for the former Rafferty Newman Wildcat Scooters racing team. I might have a chat with him on the subject and find out more. Gary Wells at Allstyles was also briefly a sidecar racer...

Slightly off-topic but still relevant to the air cooling discussion, I seem to remember that Ian Frankland has previously raised issues with regard to fin size underneath flywheel cowlings. According to Martin Leech (Knowledge) who wrote on this for Jet Set last year, Ian believes that if there is anything more than a 1mm gap between the tips of the fan and the cowling, air being pushed by the fan will escape long before it is pushed over the fins of the barrel and head. This is particularly the case for lightweight AF flywheels, where there is apparently a large gap between the fins and flywheel cowl.

Martin made a rather clever modification, a sort of "doughnut" inside the cowling to bridge the gap. Air would be drawn in through the centre hole, directed though the doughnut, collected by the fins and then forced round the cover and over the cylinder without it escaping. I'm sure he has some pictures of this somewhere and can post them on here if necessary.

The problem with all these clever ideas is that we rarely get the chance to test them in practice. For example I'd love to have seen a test with and without the "doughnut", using some sort of head temperature gauge, to see if the cooling idea has any effect. Shouldn't be too difficult to set up.

soulsurfer wrote:

Thats great matey, cheers, was there any more is that the whole article?

That was it on the cooling thing.

But for info here is the other page -

Thnx Rosscla

Right then! Back from Bulith wells today, with my cutdown head cowling. I was a bit nervous and almost bottled it and fitted a full cowling before I set off! But I didn't, got all the way there and back no seizes, engine noises seem a bit louder than before tho. At speed the temp rises as it should it takes a bit longer to reach the high temp but runs a lot cooler at lower speeds and cools down quicker.

My cht temp reader is a Vapor comp which im not trusting the temp readings 100% more using them as a guide! Because I have been told by people a lot wiser than me that at 220 degrees ur blowing up ur engine! I have seen on my gauge a high temp of 250 ish, a clutch in moment I can tell u, about 12 miles after filling up!

whilst going down a hill thru Wales at 50-60 mph the temp went down to 90 degrees!!! At 60 mph on a straight the temp sits at 160 degrees cruising at up to 75 it goes up to 220 ish, but if the throttle is wound open the temp comes down steadily. Then I s**t myself at around the 80 mph mark and slow down to 65 70 that sorts the temp out lol!

So I cannot say for definite if it is better than the std cowl but it works for me.

For the tech heads amongst us my set up up is : rb236 ported by Ben at afs, franspeed race pipe, tmx 35 cam lam powerjet fitted, 17 degrees timing, Indian gp200 box, 19 47 sprockets, Vapor comp speedo, chopped up head cowl! flying to a rally near u soon!
Hope this info helps if ur having heat problems