Scooterotica

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lambretta- ... ctupt=true

if the inlet port is anything like the ali barrels coming out of india ,id stick with the innocenti one you have.

what daggs says about conflicting advice is very true .
I often feel that many recommendations are made with little, if any, consideration of budget or financial viability.
If you are retired on a Pension like a lot of us are you'll probably need to consider budget carefully .

My advice would be to get an experienced engine builder to assess your original crankshaft, conrod barrel and piston before replacing any of it possibly unnecessarily.
None of us can see clearly the condition of your crank from a single image , it may well be reusable as is

My guess would be that your engine was running hot due to lack of fuel from the idle circuit . When your engine is in deceleration it only has the fuel and airflow supplied by the idle circuit which is very little relative to the likely RPMs of the engine . Its very common for pistons to 'nip up' on deceleration which is why most knowledegable owners do not use their engines to brake from high speed . Thats what your brakes are for lol

If you can afford it ,it would be good practice to fit new rings to your existing piston and lightly hone the bore however you'll need to measure the bore and piston to bore fit and fit oversize rings if necessary . Otherwise reusing the existing pistons and rings with a very light hand hone to deglaze may well suffice.

It all depends what you are hoping to achieve. If you want a no expense spared ,fire breathing monster using top-of-the-range components then this advice will seem mad but I refitted my 64 Li150 barrel ,piston, rings and crank and the engine still comfortably managed to carry my 17 stone to 55mph cruising speed which was enough for me.

"I often feel that many recommendations are made with little, if any, consideration of budget or financial viability."
When thinking of financial viability, nobody seriously spends their money on an antique moped, surely?
For what they cost, there's significantly 'better' machines for probably half the money. Antique mopeds aren't a hobby for those running on a tight budget.

So here is where I am, waiting for the head to come back from the machine shop. New crank and cleaned up and lightly polished case.

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Some of the things I'm proud of in my first time working on a scooter. Homemade hub puller.

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Only major problem so far was getting seal plate out. I don't think that side had been apart since new in 63. One screw head broke off with the impact driver but I manage to cut a new slot with a dremel and drive it out. I am replacing the plate with the new casa plate. Seeing the broken screw turning was the only thing that stopped two days of feeling sick. I was a happy camper.

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Ive found the quickest and easiest way to get stuck seal plate screws out is to weld an old bolt to the top and then just unscrew with a suitable sized spanner.

Im not altogether sold on the idea of using hex headed screws as a replacement to the traditional slot head, I’ve rounded a couple off all to easily.

Just a note to say well done getting that seal plate screw out! I'm impressed with your home made hub puller too. With dedication like that I'm certain your going to get there and when it runs it'll be cause for celebration. Muttley made a good point earlier about how tight budgets and antique mopeds don't mix. My smallblock has a casatronic ignition, casa 185 kit, expensive chain and sprocket, af clubman and scootopia carb along with quality bearings and a properly shimmed gearbox. I fitted the same crank that you've bought. The new carb saved me time faffing around and worrying about the original one. I did a leakdown test before fitting and it's been completely trouble free. It'll do 60mph, doesn't need an expensive clutch and is so economical, it doesn't need a long range tank either. Spending the money broke my heart at the time and the cost delayed the build but it's worth every penny in the long run. If reliability is a priority avoid the cheap route. I don't have any experience of the rt kits, I'm sure a standard clutch is fine for them but if you go for one of the higher powered set ups you'll need a £500 clutch, £500 brakes, £400 exhaust and a long range tank...only mentioning this in case your tempted! Best of luck with it.

The welding trick was my next move. My buddy is a navy welder so I was about to go give him the sad eye. I'm not sold on the hex head either. I am getting the Casa seal plate and it has slotted screws. https://scooterlab.uk/casa-performance- ... omponents/
What do you think about punching in the screws. I think I am just going to use blue locticte on this build and hopefully make servicing a little easier next time.
Paul, you are right about the budget requirements. Luckily I have the ability to do a lot of this myself. Still, after spending very high for the bike originally, it isn't worth putting cheap components in it or cutting corners. The aim at the moment though is to keep it mechanically as close to original as possible even though it does have an electronic ignition fitted but the original can be retrofitted if necessary.
This is what she looks like just before I stripped her down, the paint seat tires and many parts are brand new, so it is almost where I want it to be, I just want the inside to be the standard of the outside.

Funnily enough I bought that casa plate but never used it. It’s very well made and I’m sure will be fitted by me at some stage! Your scooter looks great! I did the opposite to you and bought my scooter very cheaply but it cost me a lot to get everything non engine right. Runners, lights, loom....it seemed never ending. Even a lambretta in boxes for free can easily break the 2 grand barrier to make right and that doesn’t include the engine or paint. I used loctite and haven’t had a problem. At least heat will help remove those screws in the future when your doing your 20000mile service!