sydduckett wrote:
I did wonder. So its the same as rimini then apart thats its more expensive and hasnt been tested on more than 2 bikes at this point in time? I have to wonder why you would pay more money for a first version of a box when you can buy one cheaper thats been revised a number of times with issues dealt with?
There was an explaination on MB's facebook page vis a viz how it was made - before the Rimini cyclone mk1 was released.
The method used to make the layshaft/christmas tree was similar to the Mk1 cyclone, the one which was trouble free. Allegedly.
If the company making them is who I think it is, then they design and make lots of high power gearboxes for bikesport, often slipping in an extra ratio or two for older bikes with good reliability.
They also make two different close ratio gear sets which are sold/used by Charlie at Performance Tuning.
The cyclone mk2 was an attempt to streamline production, hobbing two gears together, rather than each gear individually.
The individually cut gears in the MB version were stated to only be slightly narrower than an original standard gear.
Perhaps someone has a link or copy of the fb article?
Our new MB-5 has taken off really well with deposits coming in thick and fast. If your interested call the shop on 01709 869756 and give us a deposit. Where taking multiples of £100 up to £500 or like most they’ve secured their bespoke gearbox with a £500 deposit. These are small batch gearboxes especially made for the customer, these are not mass produced gearboxes, so doubt we will be keeping lots on stock……. But we will see how it goes.I’m back from a week away so have started to look at the samples in depth, the sale made us really busy so I’ve some tuning work to do to catch up then I can start on the first 2 engines.Today I checked out the gear ratios with various sprocket arrangements that will suit all known engines. I did all this a few months ago and I’m pleased to say having taken a break from it, I’m very pleased.These are the gear teeth sizes5th 34/194th 37/183rd 38/152nd 41/121st 50/10I’ve already seen stupid ‘nofuckall’ comments! Check it out on the visualizer and do the compares. I’ve looked at our old boxes, had a tweak and thought as I do - with some common sense! There’s 3 ways to look at how a 5 speed gearbox should be used.1) Set the top gear ratio the same as the standard gearbox/ratio you use. This is providing your motor is correct - as in cylinder, crank, ignition, carb and exhaust. If you’ve done this correct especially on a tuned motor your gearbox will be about perfect. A 5 speed on this engine will mean your changing gear more often but you won’t feel the longer delays through each gear. It’s more ying – ying – ying than burr – burr – burr.2) Set the gear ratio so 4th gear is the same as your 4th gear ratio. 5th will become an over drive. This is fine if you understand 4th is the same as 4th. Don’t think oh my god I’m stuck in 4th and I need to change up into 5th. This is the same as your using a 4 speed box, people don’t like staying in 3rd all day. Bare in mind I’ve won races by big margins using only 3 gears!3) Set the 5th gear ratio a little bit higher than your used to. This way on a bad windy day the chances are 4th gear pulls great, better than before then you have the option to drop it into 5th when the conditions are better. Driving from 1st to 5th has closer jumps between each gears, so you don’t feel it dying when you change up. IF the motor is set correctly you are going faster for longer!The big question is – IS YOUR MOTOR SET CORRECTLY to start with? I find so many motors are set up so poorly with lots of bad advice out there. Most think they have a good engine until they ride with an engine set correctly. Then it’s ‘wow you’ve got a fast bike’ when in reality it’s a combination of set up that’s works better. But it is true a 5 speed can improve a poor motor!It’s so important to get port timings set to work in the rev range and the way you drive. Squish clearance and head compression is as important if not more so. Add the correct sized carb and the correct working exhaust, set the ignition timing to suit and finally the gear ratio for the top speed you want to drive at. Every one drives different, everyone drives at different speeds. Whatever your engine is your only as fast as the slowest man if you drive in a group, so rideability is so important, this is where the gearing comes in so much.If it’s a 4 speed or a 5 speed everyone has still got to set off from a stand still, this is so important but are you a skinny bloke, a heavy bloke or do you drive 2 up? I’ve set the 1st gear to suit everyone. There’s nothing worse than having to slip the clutch and rev the motor up and down to get the bike moving, this really helps the clutch! If your used to a Li150, Gp125/200, Sx200 or a Tv200 first gear you can choose these with our MB-5.Then it’s a case of setting a top gear ratio to suit the speed you want top out at. This then depends on what sprockets to use.I’ve done the gear ratios so if you use simple standard sprockets of 15x46 this gives 5.49:1 top ratio, with a 4th ratio of 6.30:1 ideal for any 125-175 standard or any engine set poorly that doesnt pull correctly, also suits a high revving peaky type of engine. 18x47 gives a top ratio of 4.67:1 with a 4th ratio of 5.37 an ideal set up for most wide spread of power engines. These work with standard chains, the ratios are useable depending on engine spec. Of course you can then use the easy set up worn chain idea 16x46 and 19x47 or say 17x47 and 19x46 all working on simple top slippers/adjusters these give a good simple easy to use 1st gear and a top gear to suit your engine with nice easy jumps between each gear so the engine never dies.You can finely gear your motor to have workable 1st gears, nice gear jumps with a slight over drive or a big over drive. All this on one set of gear ratio’s. It’s very doubtful any gear ratio will be altered for the production run and you don’t need loose 1st or 4th gears to set the ratios.Of course everyone wants to know how our UK MB-5 differs from the Italian 5 speed. Well it depends on how you want to look at it. I’m not going to invent a name using a chicken dish, I doubt we will produce a sexy book and cover or even do a fitting book on how to fit a gearbox that can be fitted using the simple repair manuals that everyone has. It’s doesn’t need special shims, a light or the end plate drilling to check gear alignment. We’re not going to offer a weaker spec steel and a higher spec steel. What we are offering is a bespoke, well designed gearbox that fits and works from day one. It’s not rocket science, it’s simple good engineering from all experts involved using the best available materials, hardening and machining practices.In the photos I’ve looked more in depth at comparing where we think we have made a stronger 5 speed gearbox and how. Check out the photos comparing our MB-5 to the Italian gear sizes. Our cluster gear widths are the same as a standard cluster, our loose gears are also the same widths. The Italian box is weaker at all measurement points. The Italian one is known to break in race engines they use a 9 tooth cluster on 1st gear, we use a 10 tooth making them stronger. Of course we need to test these and have worked closely with Paul Baker and Team SRP as he broke all the Italian gearboxes tested.I’m not doing the big sell or slagging off another product. There’s the facts, if you like what you see and want one, you can see why they cost what they cost.
Hi anybody using an LI125 gearbox with a 17, 47 set up (5.09.1) on an RT 195, bgm clubman and a dell 28 ? if so, how does it perform? and is it worth doing ?
