Scooterotica

all that lovely work covered up with a big piece of rubber lol/////

T5-190 wrote:Hi holty, in the very poor instuctions that came with the Falc clutch ( they were in Italian ) it tells you to tighten the clutch nut to 50 NM. And to use a little high strength loctite on the threads. But however I used a DRT xmas tree which has a bigger thread and nut. Believe it or not it is M11. Also there is a tab washer to knock over in two places. The trick to holding the clutch basket on this type of clutch is to place a 2p piece between the two cogs whilst tightening up the nut. But on a standard type clutch you can use a clutch holding tool which looks like a cluch steel plate with an arm welded on like a Lambretta one. Here's a picture of a home made one.

that sounds like a good upgrade, obviously the taper keeps the two together, but the larger thread on the nut and gear will make a diffrence to the amount of force squeezing them together, looking forward to seeing more of this build,
holty

Very nice work

holty wrote:

T5-190 wrote:Hi holty, in the very poor instuctions that came with the Falc clutch ( they were in Italian ) it tells you to tighten the clutch nut to 50 NM. And to use a little high strength loctite on the threads. But however I used a DRT xmas tree which has a bigger thread and nut. Believe it or not it is M11. Also there is a tab washer to knock over in two places. The trick to holding the clutch basket on this type of clutch is to place a 2p piece between the two cogs whilst tightening up the nut. But on a standard type clutch you can use a clutch holding tool which looks like a cluch steel plate with an arm welded on like a Lambretta one. Here's a picture of a home made one.

that sounds like a good upgrade, obviously the taper keeps the two together, but the larger thread on the nut and gear will make a diffrence to the amount of force squeezing them together, looking forward to seeing more of this build,
holty

Friday will bring a bit more work, next is the top end. Squish and head clearence and put on some timing marks. Then try and fit the exhuast around the back wheel.

A little more done, the top end is on and the piston to head clearance checked. It worked out at 1.40mm using the solder method. The exhaust was fitted next, the proper exhaust for this engine is about the uglyiest thing I have seen for an exhaust anyway. Others are trickling through now MDM in Italy make a curly and a normal looking one that make very good figures. But I'm going to give a Hammerzombie ago, I know its not the right one for the engine but I like the look of it and I have one from another project. I made a new manifold to mate with cylinder and increase the bore, also made a new mounting bracket. This way I can always use it on something else if it doesn't work out. And last but not least I made a carbon fibre end can. The tube I made in the shed from carbon cloth and clear epoxy resin in a home made mould.







The bare exhaust will be hi temp clear coated and the end can riveted back on. The new can was 200g lighter than the st/st one.

Oh and I got the ally flywheel anodized red at Dorset Anodizing for £15, bargain.

A little more, got a can of very hi temp clear coat from Ebay. This stuff is under a tenner and is good for 800'c and gloss too, normally hi temp is matt or satin. had to bake it @ 160'c for an hour.

Worth noting that that spray ho6es gummy when hot so it may be worth trying to cure it a heat gun or even a hairdryer otherwise you'll pick up a lot of stuff on it if out riding.

Hi George, I baked the exhaust @ 160'c for an hour in my powder coating oven as per the instructions on the can and their website. But thanks for the heads up. My oven will go up to about 300'c so may take it up in 50'c steps.

Re-baked the exhaust just in case. Bolted it back on to check the fit and clearance. Also started on the head cowling, in the poor fitting instructions it says to use a P125 but this doesn't even come close to fitting or any of the screw holes lining up. Read on the interweb that a T5 cowling will fit, the screw holes line up but the spark plug hole is in the centre on a T5 but on the side on this kit. So a hole would have to be made and one filled in. This would look poor I think. So I have decided to make one from scratch. Bought a PK125 cowling then cut it to fit, filled in the wedge shape gap that it left. Primed and hi gloss pattern painted then filled with plaster of Paris. This has made it nice and solid to work on. Next I will make a two piece split mould, from this I will make a fibre glass/carbon cowl.