Scooterotica

Noplastic wrote: hmm good to know, one less problem to check. but there's something wrong...i just can't understand what...today i'll try to put the timing as it was before around 21, if the problem is the timing i should notice some difference at least. i'll also check the carb again. what are the symptoms when the choke doesnt come back to the off position completely?

Because of the variations in flywheels and stator pickups the only way to check your ignition timing is with a strobe timing light. You must confirm TDC and mark it on the magneto housing (to match your flywheel mark) and then use a degree wheel to mark on the mag housing where you want your timing to be. These days that tends to be around 17 dgrees before TDC rather than the old 21/23 degrees.
You can then start your engine and check with the timing light where your ignition fires and if it's relatively stable.

Hope this helps

Regards the 2% oil. I aim for 2 % which is 100ml for every 5L. But !!.... i never seem to just put 5L in the tank. So if i put 8.9 L in (which should then have 178ml) i'll put 200 ml. So i probably run over 2% but no more than 3%. I use the SIP fully synthetic but that's because i thought it was cheap. My next lot of oil maybe the Rockoil Groundsman....which is cheaper.

I'd calm down with the scooter and get your timing nailed on before you start running about. You don't have to do many miles to hole your piston and 21 degrees is in the danger area. 18 seems the minimum with more edging towards 17. Buy a timing disc then get it strobed.

My mate has a Muggelo 225 and it shifts !! He's running it pretty standard (clubman exhaust) and he cruises 2 up at close to 60 and is very happy with the power delivery. It sounds as though you may have timing and carb isues, hopefully easy fixes.

I run my muggy on 4% oil and 15 degrees

OK i got a piston stopper and I found the tdc and the firing point (15 degrees anticlockwise from the tdc)... Next i have to point the arrow on the flywheel opposite to the firing point mark and have to line up the pick up lines with the flywheel two lines right? And after that i strobe it, is that correct?

Once you have found TDC and measured the required amount of ignition anticlockwise wise from TDC , start the engine and strobe, the arrow on the fly wheel should align to your ignition mark. If not note the direction which the arrow requires to move in order to align the ignition mark. Remove the fly wheel and move the stator plate in the required direction. Replace the fly wheel and strobe again, until you have the correct ignition point.

Will help to use white paint to highlight the arrow on the fly wheel and the ignition mark.


Hope that's clear

Jay

Frautzi wrote:Once you have found TDC and measured the required amount of ignition anticlockwise wise from TDC , start the engine and strobe, the arrow on the fly wheel should align to your ignition mark. If not note the direction which the arrow requires to move in order to align the ignition mark. Remove the fly wheel and move the stator plate in the required direction. Replace the fly wheel and strobe again, until you have the correct ignition point.

Will help to use white paint to highlight the arrow on the fly wheel and the ignition mark.


Hope that's clear

Jay

Bang on, don't worry too much about the lines on top of the pickup, they are only used for VERY rough initial setting up.

Used to use Tippex fluid. Everyone had some then. It dried quickly. It showed up well under a strobe. It came in a convenient package with a brush.

tonydevon wrote:I run my muggy on 4% oil and 15 degrees

Tony,Mugello recommend 3%

Strobed! And i actually verified how 15 degrees before tdc is nothing like fully clockwise on my stator... to make the arrow match with the firing point i had to turn it anticlockwise amost till the half of the flange or even further. that means that when i tested it i was driving way too much advanced that might explain why the scooter was so dead... tomorrow i'll test it again... I also adjusted the choke like descirbed here at the end of this post: http://lambrettarestorations.blogspot.f ... choke.html

This is a bit off topic but..can someone explain me how the side panels are supposed to be held in place on a Lambretta Gp200? I was told they didnt fit any buffers or something like that when they delivered it to me... but i dont understand what these buffers are where they go, how they work etc... I got these holders in the back of the frame http://www.b2b-trade.de/shops/product/S ... hrome.html but they are no use since they're not attached in any ways to the side panels. Best would be if someone could post me a couple of pictures of their Lambrettas cause i need to see it! Any help appreciated. Thanks

Rubber buffers should be fitted in the hangers that support the rear of the footboard.

You can make it out in this picture -



Same on both sides.

The panel pushes on firmly from front towards rear then you lift the spring clip up to hook onto he lower lip of the panel.

On this one you can see the clip hanging down, it should rotate up till under tension then clip over the lip on the inside of the panel.