Scooterotica

Thanks for the info on small/large block.
No problem with sending to Ric. More problem with shipping cost Sweden<->UK.

Have you tried asking local scooterists for help on fixing the casings? I know couple of scooterist in Sweden who could probably fix that (assuming they have time to do it).

kejj wrote:Thanks for the info on small/large block.
No problem with sending to Ric. More problem with shipping cost Sweden<->UK.

ill print off a pic of the damage and show the guy as i need to drop some jobs off at his and ill get a price for you then you can decide

http://tv175.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/t ... uos-story/
Latest updates:

Been offline for a while cause of work and life in general.
I did get a hold of a second LI150 S2 case that is in good condition with no cracks. My escape plan is to rebuild my TV engine in that case. My plan is still original with minor upgrades.
I plan to get a 116 crankshaft with GP cone to suit a modern GP 12v electronic ignition. I will try to keep the original cabling and connect the new cdi and regulator. My TV is of an early model (1962) so I assume having a 4 pole DC 6v ignition (w/ battery). I’m sticking to DC to be able to run led lights and uprated horn.

Full article on the link above!

Latest updates on the blog.
Engine parts bought.
Thanks goes out to Just Lambretta, Scooter Restorations and Scooter-Center.
http://tv175.wordpress.com/2011/09/02/parts-delivered/

restoration restarted!
http://tv175.wordpress.com/

My ideas are, Original Tv175 S3 engine but:

• With a GP crank with TV length conrod
  2nd oversize piston, 62.4
  22mm carburator (jetex)
  High quality chain from local supplier
  12v DC electrics (hopefully correct full DC)
  some sort of digital speedo
  tubeless rims
  acc: airhorn (stebel)

Bought a pair of mounts from Scooter Restorations. Tried to fit them to the case today with no luck.

I heated the casing where the mounts go and tried to fit them with the correct lambretta tool.

The mounts are a 3 hole version and I read in stickys tha the correct position is one hole at 6 o’clock and the remaining pointing forward.

They didn’t move at all. Stuck tight and no movement at all.
Didn’t whammy to force them through in case of damage to the casing.

What am I doing wrong here?




http://tv175.wordpress.com/

You could try leaving the mounts in the fridge overnight, and heat the lugs where they fit. Even with the correct tool, there is some resistance when fitting them. Make sure there is no crud/oxidation/dirt in the lugs where they fit. If they are still really tight, then a light rubbing with fine emery cloth may help ease them in.

some engine mounts are rounded on the inner edge and some MUST be filed / chamfered at the edges that the very inner edge (2mm).
otherwise they stuck.

Success!
Success! The problem first time around was that I didn’t heat the casing up enough to drive the silent blocks through!


I also succeeded in adding the gear selector arm. It’s the old version, and quite worn but tight. I loose the adjustment gain anyhow cause the selector arm only goes on one way only. Will see if I have to change this one further on.


Original post link: http://tv175.wordpress.com/2012/02/02/engine-mounts-2/