Clutch arm is at right angles.
Plunger is in so it sinks right in to casing?
The last Thing, it's really stiff
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Bilko
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Yes I do have to wind the compressor a good bit down. Not as much as in the picture now longer springs are in.
Clutch arm is at right angles.
Plunger is in so it sinks right in to casing?
Clutch arm is at right angles.
Plunger is in so it sinks right in to casing?
On the photo the plates dont look like theve moved ? do they move when you turn the extractor in ?
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soulsurfer
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When you turn the compressor in you're not compressing the plates but pushing the pressure plate down, compressing the springs. If these don't compress enough due to size then the plates won't separate enough to disengage the gears from drive. Sorry if this is obvoiuos but it sounds like it's all a bit tight in there due to total plate or steel thickness or becoming coil bound. Can you compress the springs in a vice and measure the compressed length and what thickness are the plates and steels, check them all for variation.
Turn On, Tune In, Cop out!
Bilko you need the shorter springs. I think if you phone Camlam you may find there is two types for the 6 plate clutch but confirm this.
Best thing is to get back to basics.
Leave all the plates out for a moment. Just assemble the springs and the pressure plate. Wind the compressor in untill just before the springs are coil bound. The pressure plate must be sitting low enough so that you can see the bottom cork would fit properly into the recess.
If all is good there double check with just one cork and the bottom steel with the extra long turned up tangs.
Make sure the cork fits into the recess and that the bottom steel cannot drop too low and spin under the spider.
If all is ok assemble the rest of the clutch. Fit the circlip but leave the clutch compressed. With a feeler gauge measure between the top plate and the top cork. Less than a mm and the clutch will drag. Much more and the springs will not be able to excert enough pressure on the corks and they will slip under load. I would set a limit of 1.5mm.
If the distance is greater than this start with a thicker top plate and move down through the steels untill you have bridged the distance. If its less than a mm, 2mm top plates are available or exchange your spider for one with a circlip housing higher up. This obviously works in reverse. Be aware though that the higher up the circlip the more likely the top cork will be able to jump the turrets so bend the top corks ears down.
Next you need to look at both your clutch actuating lever on the case and the clutch lever on the bars.
If you have the yamaha type clutch lever suspect this straight away. I've found these actually move the cable less than std Lammy levers. You can modify the Yam lever by heating the lever and bending it outwards to give more clearance.
If you have an aftermarket actuating lever check its long enough(but not too long) and that when it starts to engage the clutch its at 90 degrees to the case. All these things will have an effect on how far the brass plunger depresses the clutch.
Good luck
Best thing is to get back to basics.
Leave all the plates out for a moment. Just assemble the springs and the pressure plate. Wind the compressor in untill just before the springs are coil bound. The pressure plate must be sitting low enough so that you can see the bottom cork would fit properly into the recess.
If all is good there double check with just one cork and the bottom steel with the extra long turned up tangs.
Make sure the cork fits into the recess and that the bottom steel cannot drop too low and spin under the spider.
If all is ok assemble the rest of the clutch. Fit the circlip but leave the clutch compressed. With a feeler gauge measure between the top plate and the top cork. Less than a mm and the clutch will drag. Much more and the springs will not be able to excert enough pressure on the corks and they will slip under load. I would set a limit of 1.5mm.
If the distance is greater than this start with a thicker top plate and move down through the steels untill you have bridged the distance. If its less than a mm, 2mm top plates are available or exchange your spider for one with a circlip housing higher up. This obviously works in reverse. Be aware though that the higher up the circlip the more likely the top cork will be able to jump the turrets so bend the top corks ears down.
Next you need to look at both your clutch actuating lever on the case and the clutch lever on the bars.
If you have the yamaha type clutch lever suspect this straight away. I've found these actually move the cable less than std Lammy levers. You can modify the Yam lever by heating the lever and bending it outwards to give more clearance.
If you have an aftermarket actuating lever check its long enough(but not too long) and that when it starts to engage the clutch its at 90 degrees to the case. All these things will have an effect on how far the brass plunger depresses the clutch.
Good luck
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Bilko
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Not long back from dropping my Son off, so bear with me.
@ Mike:
The short springs compress to 13.05 in the vice. According to the Scootering article below the 15mm maximum.
@ Al
Just going down to try your test! But the clutch was almost impossible to pull in on the short springs. It's not the best on the long springs either. But all this means nowt at the moment.
@ Mike:
The short springs compress to 13.05 in the vice. According to the Scootering article below the 15mm maximum.
@ Al
Just going down to try your test! But the clutch was almost impossible to pull in on the short springs. It's not the best on the long springs either. But all this means nowt at the moment.
When I put my camlam 6plate in with the springs that followed, it worked perfect, but was redicules hard to pull, useless for me. I mean HARD! I was't able to hold it in for more then a few seconds. With some softer springs(taffspeed that I cut) it worked perfectly, no drag at all an soft enough to use.
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bazman
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Yeah when i used the cam-lam 6 plater in my RB used AF GT springs light as a feather to pull in and never gave a spot of bother even when hitting 91 mph on the dyno!!Stian wrote:When I put my camlam 6plate in with the springs that followed, it worked perfect, but was redicules hard to pull, useless for me. I mean HARD! I was't able to hold it in for more then a few seconds. With some softer springs(taffspeed that I cut) it worked perfectly, no drag at all an soft enough to use.
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Bilko
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Picture 1
The flange & springs wound in. It looks like the compressor stopped before the springs did.
Picture 2
1 cork
The flange fits inside the recess, but the cork doesn't go inside the recess because it's on top of the flange.
Picture 3
Cork & steel on the flange. You can see it doesn't go in the recess
The flange & springs wound in. It looks like the compressor stopped before the springs did.
Picture 2
1 cork
The flange fits inside the recess, but the cork doesn't go inside the recess because it's on top of the flange.
Picture 3
Cork & steel on the flange. You can see it doesn't go in the recess