Scooterotica

carlos fandango wrote:i had the same problem ended up getting the hub machined down 5mm to get it central

What i said earlier
i had the disc spindle in an i still couldn`t get it central so i got a frank sanderson single disk anti dive. Although im not a particular fan of the pepper pot design. It still works out cheaper buying a Mr Sanderson one than the others (if they wont fit central) with all the messing about you have to do
I Reused the Spaq/ sterling disc on another scoot and it still wouldn`t centralize so thats when i took it apart and fixed it
I did live with it on the first scoot for a while, and in a straight line its fine but when cornering things start getting lively if you corner one way it would pull the scoot up corner the other way and it pulled the scooter down
I asked the Qs. about distance between fork links at the time and i think the consensus was 135 to 140mm.
Russ

So, I've wasted my f@@king money. Again.

Sorry. I forgot to add my thanks to those who tried to help. I don't want anyone thinking I was ungrateful.

So now I take the next place to go is PM?

This is a major set back for the 250

Bilko wrote:New bits helped a wee bit, but it ended up 20mm one side 35mm the other. I don't know what else can be done.

Errr, forget what I previously posted, I've mistaken the dark patch on nthe left as part of the tyre.


I've just fitted a PM version to racer forks and it's just like yours, so I know how you're feeling.

No, mines worst, it leans to one side.

I think it's the Injun forks in my case.

Bilko wrote:Sorry. I forgot to add my thanks to those who tried to help. I don't want anyone thinking I was ungrateful.

So now I take the next place to go is PM?

This is a major set back for the 250

Mine only cost £20 to have it machined if you know a friendly machinist if you have 20mm one side and 35mm the other would mean you need to have 7.5mm machined off. just make sure that you have more than that between the caliper and tyre/rim before you get it done

If you replace the sterling caliper plate with the scootrs caliper plate you'll need to use a much thicker nut on the opposite side, or add the thin nut you remove from the caliper side.

corrado wrote:If you replace the sterling caliper plate with the scootrs caliper plate you'll need to use a much thicker nut on the opposite side, or add the thin nut you remove from the caliper side.

Good one, forgot about that

I forgot about that!

So I threw a thin nut on the other side. Still out, but it was an improvement on getting central, but there's not enough thread to put the nut on.