Scooterotica

sydduckett wrote:oh yeah and its a delly 30m, but had a 34 on without issues in the past.

:bouncyeng:

Ups, ok, one minute later

Special X wrote:I've compared the Jimmers manifold to the LTH? one and there's no comparison. The LTH looks to have around double the flow area of the Jimmers which is very restrictive. I'm really p!$$ed off posting this because Jimmers is most definitely one of the good guys.

well when i did this "design" i left pretty much standard aprt from the clearance issues and the different style mounting for the carb, both issues addressed. now going by one tuner and another and another all have different ideas and opinions so i decided to leave alone apart from a few subtle changes, leaving any tuning work or modifications to the purchaser which is obviously reflected in the price.

these are very adaptable to being opening up a lot and if required pieces cut out etc etc but thats upto each and every person

not everyone has hundreds of pounds to spend on tuning work and as someone has pointed out the rubbers alone cost 25-30 pounds, so if they wanted to do some diy and save a few pounds.

if you like buy if you dont then there are other different designs and variations on the market

fair play jimmers and an honest answer, im sticking with orig...

sydduckett wrote:its a series 3 LI running an RB as supplied by AF, im not saying that the mouth isnt near the inside of the side panels but its not touching. Also worth bearing in mind how much fuel/oil the carbs on rbs chuck out if you have a big space between your panel and the mouth everything back of it is gonna be coated in gunk. Close to the panel it tends to hit that and stick as opposed to going everywhere...

thats mny 2 penneth..

I think the idea of Jimmers manifold is that you can run an airfilter on top of an air bellow.... This will help not only to keep your engine clean, but help your barrel last longer!

Yeah i get that, but it didntlook to me that even with design there would be room to get a remote filter on and then be able to put the panel on? I could be wrong though..it wouldnt be the first time... We are talking about a remote filter arnt we?...

I feel I ought to clarify the post I made. While the Jimmers manifold is restrictive as std there is a lot of scope for improvement because the walls are thick enough to allow a good amount of gasflowing. Bringing the carb closer to the engine allows for either a ram air style filter, or decent panel clearance on an open carb. . . . and it is a hell of a lot cheaper.

As i said at the start of this thred ive done my own, you can make a decent job of the AF one if you can weld alloy or have a mate that can, i have taken a couple of pics of mine on my mobile, if anyone wants to post them on here i can send them to you via mobile but cant post myself. I had mine dyno,d on thursday after altering the inlet and had a increase in power of over 1 BHP, i dont know wether this is down to my work blending it to fit the reed block better or just the fact that its got more panal clearence allowing it to breath easyer, i would think a bit of both TBH. If i were to do it again and could,nt get the manifold welded i would buy one of the jimmers inlets as the hard works already done and there looks to be enough meat on it to alter it to suit most needs and at £70 with the rubber are cheap, if your only fitting one to give more panal clearence and are not after every bit of BHP you could just polish the insides and leave as is or fettle it, the choice is yours. What you also gain from doing your own is the chance to change the angle of the flange to get the carb were you want it, its hard to tell from photo,s but it doesnt look like any of the ones available to buy have done this, regards. .

eibargum wrote:As i said at the start of this thred ive done my own, you can make a decent job of the AF one if you can weld alloy or have a mate that can, i have taken a couple of pics of mine on my mobile, if anyone wants to post them on here i can send them to you via mobile but cant post myself. I had mine dyno,d on thursday after altering the inlet and had a increase in power of over 1 BHP, i dont know wether this is down to my work blending it to fit the reed block better or just the fact that its got more panal clearence allowing it to breath easyer, i would think a bit of both TBH. If i were to do it again and could,nt get the manifold welded i would buy one of the jimmers inlets as the hard works already done and there looks to be enough meat on it to alter it to suit most needs and at £70 with the rubber are cheap, if your only fitting one to give more panal clearence and are not after every bit of BHP you could just polish the insides and leave as is or fettle it, the choice is yours. What you also gain from doing your own is the chance to change the angle of the flange to get the carb were you want it, its hard to tell from photo,s but it doesnt look like any of the ones available to buy have done this, regards. .

If you can, or if someone can help you, put the pics here, please
I cant receive your pics in my mobile because i am in Spain
Thanks!

i bought one of jimmers rb manifolds as i want to run a remote filter which there isnt room for with an original one,i am in the process of opening it out & will let you know what difference it makes

eibargum wrote:As i said at the start of this thred ive done my own, you can make a decent job of the AF one if you can weld alloy or have a mate that can, i have taken a couple of pics of mine on my mobile, if anyone wants to post them on here i can send them to you via mobile but cant post myself. I had mine dyno,d on thursday after altering the inlet and had a increase in power of over 1 BHP, i dont know wether this is down to my work blending it to fit the reed block better or just the fact that its got more panal clearence allowing it to breath easyer, i would think a bit of both TBH. If i were to do it again and could,nt get the manifold welded i would buy one of the jimmers inlets as the hard works already done and there looks to be enough meat on it to alter it to suit most needs and at £70 with the rubber are cheap, if your only fitting one to give more panal clearence and are not after every bit of BHP you could just polish the insides and leave as is or fettle it, the choice is yours. What you also gain from doing your own is the chance to change the angle of the flange to get the carb were you want it, its hard to tell from photo,s but it doesnt look like any of the ones available to buy have done this, regards. .

Cant you get someone to post your pics up on here for you..??? Would be nice to see what you have achieved, as the power has increased by 1 HP since the mods, so you must be doing something right...