Light bodywork is great for sprinting but can cause stability issues causing you to have to fight most of the time to keep in a straight line in even the lightest winds. It's all horses for courses and finding a recipe that suits you. What suits one man will not necessarily suit the next man or woman. Personally I enjoy the challenge of making a 50 year old moped go as quick as some of it's modern day equivalents.Bensmith225 wrote:I know what you mean. I'd just like something to give mr money bags at the local scooter club a kick up the arse. I'm not after stupid horsepower but I'd like to get the most out of what I've got, I've got fibreglass bodywork coming after Christmas so I imagine that's gonna make one hell of a difference
charlton_supporter wrote:I have only recently moved over to reed induction. For years I have messed around with piston port engines and had reasonable levels of success. I admire you for wanting to have a go yourself. Getting from 10hp to 25hp is reasonable for a competent man in a shed. Getting from 25hp to 30hp takes a lot of time trouble and money (hence the scooter by that name) Getting towards 40hp on standard cases and small carbs and commercially available exhaust systems is still eluding a lot of the top tuners. Having said that, it's not all about having shed loads of power for riding on the road.Bensmith225 wrote:I'm capable of more than your average home tune as I'm fairly competent tuner (on crank fed cylinders all be it) but the whole reed valve thing is new to me. I think I'll max out the transfers and flow them. Been told widening the boost port along with the exhaust is a good improvement. Tempted by a third case transfer as the cylinder has enough beef to accommodate it. If I don't do the work myself it isn't my scooter, I'm surrounded by blokes that throw s**t loads of money at a tuner to build them a quick engine and when it goes bang they don't have a clue why or how to sort it
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