Scooterotica

GL Scoot no they didn't not until later models .
Looks a clean casing mate but has surface rust on crank webs and other items ? Check big end and cruciform looks well good for an old type gearbox
Got a good one there

I have to say, I'm well impressed with the quality of the casing.

You are right about surface rust. This engine was stood for over 30 years. Original clutch had rusted up badly on one side, which forced a complete replacement, lower piston ring had badly pitted and, as you can see, there is surface rust elsewhere including the crank webs.

These cranks are quite rare, I believe? I'm guessing that it's still a standard size big end bearing and that I'd be able to get it pressed apart, balanced etc?

I would guess they are the same as p200 mate , but couldn't tell for sure.
My concern was if it has stood as long and rust on the interior of webs .

gaz_powell wrote:Paul

The cruciform on the early gearbox is a weak point (compared to the stronger EFL type) - defo change it and as GL said use only a genuine one (wasp) and a cush drive repair kit. Dont worry about the lip on the xmas tree. More so check the loose kickstart cog/gear - change it if showing signs of rounding and the kickstart buffers.

Gaz

Cruciform. There seem so many variations. Are either of these two OK?

http://www.wasp-performance.co.uk/onlin ... iform.html

http://www.scooter-center.com/explosion ... AT#prdexpl

I have a genuine Piaggio cush drive kit. I've had issues today with getting the rivets out of the old one. So much so that I've admitted defeat and taken it to an engineers. I have to say though that the old springs "looked" fine though

Go with the scooter-centre cruciform, its made by piaggio. the xmas tree rivets are easy enough to remove, I use a sanding disc on a grinder and a nail punch, you are not going to use either the metal cover or the rivets so you can be aggressive as you want. the springs will look ok but for the cost of replacing them out ways the risk of not, especially as you have the engine open. its the same with the clutch springs, cheap replacement and worth doing.
Its basically one less thing to worry about or go wrong, when these parts have been replaced and are fitted properly they shouldn't need touch for a good few thousand miles.
Its worth having a spare cruciform, woodruff keys, oil seal set & clutch corks.

GLscoot wrote:.... the xmas tree rivets are easy enough to remove, I use a sanding disc on a grinder and a nail punch, you are not going to use either the metal cover or the rivets so you can be aggressive as you want. the springs will look ok but for the cost of replacing them out ways the risk of not, especially as you have the engine open.....

I've done all that plus penetration oil and heat I didn't get one rivet to even move

Thanks for the pointers

Paul
Wasps cruciform is genuine so thats okay.
Ive had to drill rivets out more times than been able to punch them out. Pretty straight forward on the bench drill
Its more likely that the springs are fine but as said when your that far down it makes sense. If you reassemble it yourself make sure the new rivets are well and truely compressed and peened over.
I do them in a big vice - make sure no play on the plates.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who's struggled with them then

I have stressed to the precision engineers I took them too that I'm going to have to put exactly the same size rivets back in.

Another question:

The ignition cam* that's on the photo of the crankshaft above. I need to get this off to replace the bearing. I'm guessing lots of heat and gentle tapping should suffice to get it off?

*
http://www.scooter-center.com/en/produc ... G_ZUENDUNG

It should just pull off ! Don't suppose a little tap would do it any harm. Remember when replacing Lato Esterno always faces out.

Good luck.

LOL I always assume everything is an interference fit