So thought you might be interested in the solution courtesy of Atoms in Maidstone. The splines on the layshaft and hub were showing signs of wear so both needed to be replaced. I changed them and both bearings when I installed the cyclone but having done all that there was still play (and I had it in and out half a dozen times making sure it was all done correctly). So I asked Atoms to have a look - taking no chances with the new kit - and they had a spare endplate which they used and immediately removed all play. Conclusion is that it was the layshaft endplate bush which holds the bearing. Apparently quite rare according to Dave Atoms.
There you go.
Rear wheel movement question
c3 is looser than c4 R u sure ? c4 is standard fit same question ?sean brady scooters wrote:prob not the answer but just another thing to factor in ...SO called race bearings ,have more slack in them ..C3 are looser than C4 (the std ).
C’est la vie
for anyone has read this thread; bearings are sized in clearance starting with first c2; then whats called standard or no markings to denote a clearance; then c3; then c4; then c5
deep groove ball bearings for use on a shaft diameter from 24mm-30mm IF using a bearing with c3 markings the clearance is 13-28 um; using the same bearing with a c4 marked bearing the clearance is NOW LARGER at 23-41 um; a "um" is a micrometer or 0.001mm; a c5 marked bearing has the largest radial clearance a c2 the least;
when talking about a c4 clearance bearing it is a greater clearance than a c3; but a c3 marked bearing is not a standard bearing in engineering speak; but if its for a Lambretta then the c3 is the standard bearing used for axle and crank bearings; if you were going to race and generate much more heat then you might fit a c4 to allow for the extra expansion of the bearing through heat;
some bearings are not marked with the "c" clearance but instead have dots after the bearing size like this . .. ... .... ..... But the dots mean same as the "c" markings; no dots means standard bearing Which means no allowance for contraction expansions or additional or less radial clearance,
Edit
sean i knew y knew wot y was sayin; but it just didnt read rite thanks for the repost below

deep groove ball bearings for use on a shaft diameter from 24mm-30mm IF using a bearing with c3 markings the clearance is 13-28 um; using the same bearing with a c4 marked bearing the clearance is NOW LARGER at 23-41 um; a "um" is a micrometer or 0.001mm; a c5 marked bearing has the largest radial clearance a c2 the least;
when talking about a c4 clearance bearing it is a greater clearance than a c3; but a c3 marked bearing is not a standard bearing in engineering speak; but if its for a Lambretta then the c3 is the standard bearing used for axle and crank bearings; if you were going to race and generate much more heat then you might fit a c4 to allow for the extra expansion of the bearing through heat;
some bearings are not marked with the "c" clearance but instead have dots after the bearing size like this . .. ... .... ..... But the dots mean same as the "c" markings; no dots means standard bearing Which means no allowance for contraction expansions or additional or less radial clearance,
Edit
sean i knew y knew wot y was sayin; but it just didnt read rite thanks for the repost below




Last edited by Muppet on Mon May 13, 2013 9:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
C’est la vie
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muppet is right of course ,and i did get it the wrong way around ..my typo error /my fault for the mistake ...
just wanted to make the point that different bearings spec May account for the play .
just wanted to make the point that different bearings spec May account for the play .
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So that being said Muppet, as the rear hub bearing takes a lot of grief, it should prolly have a little play in it to allow for it warming up.
Have always felt just a hairs worth of play in every rear hub when cold...might be a different game when hot
Have always felt just a hairs worth of play in every rear hub when cold...might be a different game when hot

That's not going anywhere...
I've just checked my rear wheel as out at the weekend a couple of lads noticed mine was slightly wobbling and they were right. It's like the rim is slightly buckled (tubeless rim). I put the stand on and rocked the hub and theres no play at all. It's tight on there. So I whipped the wheel off and bunged on my spare (split rim) and the results were the same. Approximately 3mm movement each way. Reckon the hub (Spanish) is warped a bit???
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Ref the pics of the shaft and hub above, I had exactly the same. I checked the end plate when I stripped the engine and with a new needle bearing there is some slight movement.
Shaft just sitting in the endplate without any other support.
I replaced the needle cage bush and movement is the same. Checked with 3 different shafts- all measure exactly the same though.
Shaft just sitting in the endplate without any other support.
I replaced the needle cage bush and movement is the same. Checked with 3 different shafts- all measure exactly the same though.
Well I took my hub off and the endplate was ok. Put the hub against a window and it doesn't quite sit flat, about 2-3mm rock on it.