Continually seizing with panels on

Anything related to Lambrettas... ask tech questions, post helpful info, or just read and learn.
Adam_Winstone
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rosscla wrote:If you use the positive stop method you don't need to take the head off, though if its been seizing then a strip and check would be advised.

Put something like a round punch or large screw driver in the plug hole and strap it in place, turn the engine in one direction slowly till it hits the stop and mark the mag flange next to the arrow on the flywheel, then turn it in the opposite direction till it touches the stop again. Mark this point on the mag flange. TDC is midway between these two points.
^... gets my vote every time, even when I've got the head off, engine on the bench and a perfectly good dial gauge + bracket hanging on the board. I don't like the roll-over factor of a dial gauge when compared to the certainty of a positive stop. Last time we had this debate I think it was Harry Barlow that pitched in with the fact that the Nascar team that he worked for in the USA would ONLY allow the positive stop method to be used..... and you can't get better than that! The best bit about this method is that you just need to pop the plug out, insert a stop, mark 2 points accordingly on the mag housing lip, slip a sheet of paper between the mag housing and the flywheel, run a pencil or pen around the lip to mark a straight reference line between the 2 points and mark the 2 points also, hold up to a light source, fold mark to mark along the line. slide this back in between the flywheel and housing lip.... and the centre fold is TDC..... SIMPLE! Mark TDC on the mag lip with a pencil, then do this again with a stop of a different diameter as a check. Regardless of diameter, and resulting 2 stop marks, the mid point should again be where you have already marked as TDC will always be TDC. You can do this as many times as you like, until you feel sure that you've identified TDC correctly, then use a fine bladed screwdriver to tap in the final confirmed TDC mark.

To find the correct firing point you can simply measure the required distance around the edge of the flywheel, measurements can be found in various texts and probably by doing a web search.... or by doing some maths.

NB: Never trust an existing TDC mark (or firing point marks) as a change of crank of mag housing will cause an earlier mark to be out of position!

Adam
Mark 1
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Think I could do that Adam, it's the next bit that gets me :? you have to dismantle the flywheel and line up marks on the flywheel and flange and then if necessary move the stator so that two white lines in the window line up with one on the pickup :? :?
I'll see what the cost of the tools is compared to taking it somewhere.

Thanks again
Mark
Muppet
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Mark 1 wrote:then if necessary move the stator so that two white lines in the window line up with one on the pickup :? :?
Nnnoooooo!!!!! never ever do that with a indian flywheel "pure evils they are I tells ya"
muppet,
C’est la vie
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TS1-200
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What you need to remember is that , once bought you will have the tools forever. its not as difficult as it all sounds.,
Keep on keepin on
Adam_Winstone
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And if you're running an Indian stator plate then you'll need to buy the tools and get used to setting timing anyway..... as a result of the stator failing and being replaced, until you get so frustrated that you buy a BGM stator and get rid of the problem!

As said above, NEVER trust the lines on Indian flywheels or stators, they WILL be wrong! You need to strobe check your timing regardless of what type of electronic ignition you have fitted. I even strobe points ignitions!

It is up to you, pay for the tools or pay for someone else to do the work. If you do have an Indian stator then be prepared to keep paying!

Adam
Mark 1
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OK, off to get a price for the tools. I've enjoyed rebuilding the frame/body/forks from a box of bits and tbh feel more confident riding when I know how everything fits together. The only thing I haven't done is take an engine apart (except cylinder/head/piston) so at least this will be a bit more learnt. Be warned though I may be back asking for more help :wtf:

Pretty sure the engine was rebuilt with quality electronic kit so hopefully not an indian stator, the cdi is blue which I think is Ducatti.

Cheers
Mark
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coaster
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Mark 1 wrote:Pretty sure the engine was rebuilt with quality electronic kit so hopefully not an indian stator, the cdi is blue which I think is Ducatti.
Er, plenty of Indian ones are blue too. The Ducatti ones have Ducatti marked on them. The Indian CDI's get a bad press but apart from a fault in my loom which killed 3 Indian and 2 Ducatti CDI's I have never had a problem with them (I always mount them on a resiliant mount to cut down vibration). Cheep enough to carry a spare or 2 as well.
Mark 1
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Er, plenty of Indian ones are blue too. :( :(

Trying to look on the bright side, just hoping the rest of the scooter is ok ;)

Cheers
Adam_Winstone
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"Be warned though I may be back asking for more help", there are plenty of people on here that are more than able and willing to help with good advice :)
rosscla
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And TBH most of the electronic kits / flywheels out there are Indian as well...
"Our dilemma is that we hate change and love it at the same time; what we really want is for things to remain the same but get better."
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