Frame rust on the inside

If you want to tell us about or ask about a standard spec or restoration project....post it here.
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carlos fandango
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Doom Patrol wrote:Any experience of these people Mr Fandango?

http://www.sweeneysherlock.co.uk/index.html

I've contacted them in the past and I'm sure they also do chemical stripping. Whether that's the same as dipping I don't know. But worth checking out.
No not heard about them, but as they are only around the corner from Grand Sport im sure they would have some feedback on them ;)
When i was young my Mom said "if you haven't got anything nice to say, say nothing at all " ..................... and people wonder why I'm quiet around them !
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corrado
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You need to put a rust convertor in the frame before putting in waxoyl etc.
http://rust.co.uk/rust-converters.cfm
Devlam
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corrado wrote:You need to put a rust convertor in the frame before putting in waxoyl etc.
http://rust.co.uk/rust-converters.cfm

Aaargh -- sometimes you can read too much

My frames stood outside for 25+yrs -- I can't see how water/rain could get inside the frame, even with the panels off, but there's always condensation. But then, also, standing outside there's air movement which is a plus. Suspect more of a problem on a stored scoot in a very hot/humid climate. Anyway I'll have to assume mine is solid -- seems ok around the drain holes and they're clear.

Has anyone used this rust convertor stuff -- does it work? How is it applied.

Thx.
Supereibar
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FFS! What is this thread for? Dont we have enough problems as to worry about our hopeless frames now eh?? :lol: :lol:

Incidentally, when I was making a home made "a la Spanish style" carriage for my S1, an M10 bolt long as my finger fell inside the inner tube the other day, and I thought, well, it will keep the surfaces clean when the scooter moves around :D

Honestly guys, by the time a sound Lambretta frame (that has not previously been snapped in half) breaks.... I think we all won't be here chit chatting.

J.
warts
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Bit late but a noob and just browsing all sorts. Waxoyl MAY work, but once you have rust, a electrical corrsion cell is formed and will carry on regardless.
You can easily(relative term) neutralise rust using its own weapon against it using washing soda.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm is just one of the sites describing the process.
You do not need to do anything physical like scratching or rubbing, which is nice, but you do need to first of all have patience and a place to do it. My mate used some plastic sheeting and old tyres to make the trough, and a battery charger for the power.
There is a thread somewhere on't interweb of a sidecar frame having been dumped in an estuary for years, came up a treat - at least all the rust had gone.
BTW rust is rust, its gone back to nature, all part of the entropic disintergation of the universe. Short of collecting all the flakes up and re smelting them, it has no structural use.
Once clean, then use waxoyl
Nick
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