Scooterotica

....or would this be better?



With a new torque arm mount in front of the fork leg. I'll probably take the cable tie off, just before anyone says anything...

not for a lammy but ......http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vespa-NOS-Ultra-R ... m153.l1262

Knowledge wrote:I'm having a bit of a crisis of confidence about my anti-dive. I've followed my own rules (actually, it was Rob at JB's "rule") of using a parallelagram, but some how it just looks like the parallelagram will squash-up under braking, and the torque arm between the caliper and the forks will not resist the rotation of the fork link about it's own (front) pivot.
What do you think?

I suggest you take the parallelogram as a very rough starting point only. You need to try it and see. You'll end up higher. (Look at Frank's photo, for example.) Too low, no damping; too high you get diving.

Why is your caliper bracket so long, btw? Why not end it after the caliper?

Anyone got pics or specs on the new BGM front dampers. If the their rear shock is anything to go by....

scootRS.com wrote:Too low, no damping; too high you get diving.

If were talking about the mounting point on the fork leg. isn't it too high, no damping, too low, you get dive

Knowledge wrote:....or would this be better?



With a new torque arm mount in front of the fork leg. I'll probably take the cable tie off, just before anyone says anything...

If you are using a long tie rod then yes it does need to go on the front of the fork leg. These are my Indian forks converted using all donor parts from Honda Bali by Lam Innov. Antidive functions very well - not really anti but neutral. You still get some dive due to weight transfer. If you remove all dive then you can't feel when you are braking too hard.

Later versions on autos (Aprilia Habana) used shorter links on the back of the fork legs like Phil Bevis racer and the CS Engineering designs. Still seem to work ok. You need one or the other though.

scootRS.com wrote: Why is your caliper bracket so long, btw? Why not end it after the caliper?

The caliper itself is very long. Note the top bolt for the caliper is at the top of the bracket.

I have been thinking, and this ties in with Speed demon's comments, of shortening the tie rod and mounting it somewhere between the two caliper bolts, onto my original fork link bracket for the tie rod. There is enough meat on the cliper mounting bracket to put a couple of holes in, giving me a choice about where I mount the tie road,. This would allow some variation on the amount of anti-dive I achieve, by altering the shape of the parallelagram.

As you say Martin, to elminate all the dive may affect my ability to feel the braking forces.

Keep it coming

simon k wrote:anyone tried the set up Charlie Edmunds runs on his race scoot? bitubo's with the spring removed and what looks like nolethane bushes

I have a set up looking like C Edmonds have (i think)...bitubos without springs, but new fluids and NO2 pressure done to match the internal fork progressive springs.

Nice machine David, but you're not going to win many races with the fat guy hanging onto your seat. Tell him to get off!

Knowledge wrote:Nice machine David, but you're not going to win many races with the fat guy hanging onto your seat. Tell him to get off!