Scooterotica

no way martin...as i say "easy outs" by snap on...or only by impact driver....
if you can use mole grips to remove the remains of studs in this situation...and confined space then you are a better man than me.........

eden wrote:I had this exact same problem over the weekend, last time I built my engine I reluctantly used the alan key head screws that MB sells, the alan key hole just striped as soon as I tried to undo them

that was the first time I had used any thing other than the flat head bit screws and it is definitely the last.

I have been down that road also, although not MB screws. It is my thinking the originals were a hardend steel also, whereas most people replace(and most shops sell) with normal steel which strips out easier.

I recently removed this

to this
to this

to this

using this

Bit of heat and a couple of taps and out came the screws. And they had been centre punched on the side. Agree about the alen key ones. Too easy to feck up if they're really tight.

djh66 wrote:Thanks for replies chaps.
Another question for you all:
The rear hub has threaded studs (reverse threads, I believe) one has striped the thread. Are there oversized replacements available? (but who would have a reverse tap?) or do I bin the hub?

I have flattened rear hub studs before and then used mole grips, easiest way IMO.

Do this many times in my job it works on broken studs damaged screws any think with a thread .And have actually done this job not so long a go .firstly clean the head of screw .place a m8 or m10 nut over the screw head and hold with a pair of long nose pliers .using a mig welder set to a good penatration .practice first.place nozzle over nut and weld in short bursts and check each time .nut will glow cherry red allow to cool then gently turn using a socket .if you have acheived a good weld .you will have a nut and screw in one .if not then try again .the nut also will protect the drive plt .if you are dab hand with a welder then try building a small peak first .have used this method even when a bolt recessed 3mm down a hole using a sleeve and nut .if you dont percess a welder then just explain this to some one you know has .good luck

corrado wrote:Can anyone suggest a way of removing (sacrificing, especially if it's alloy) the plate, maybe with dremel etc. That way the screws may be able to be moved with mole grips.

i find the best way is to weld a bolt onto the offending screw and this will allow you to screw it out,also generates heat into it which helps,,,,,,always works for me.