Scooterotica

GlosRob wrote:How effective is this type of set up and does anyone sell in the uk ?

jb tuning have been doing this for a few years now give them a call

Anyone know where I can get a small reservoir like some or any of the ones in this thread?

try this http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/-ref-12589-287.html

Found this one too...

and these,,,,,,,,,,,, http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/cat--Bremb ... voirs.html

Hi,

beedspeed do the cable operated master cylinder and a resovoir, I have this set up fitted to my LIS125 and managed to retain the horn in its original position thanks to frank sanderson supplying a bracket which allows you to mount the cylinder nice and flush on the frame tube. talk to frank as he also sells the cylinders


Regards


Ped

Just need a reservoir thanks

found this;

http://www.forums.ilambretta.com/viewto ... lit=hidden

I have everything including the hose, but wanted a proper diaphragm in the top of the hose for expansion, either by using a small 15cc reservoir or if possible to get a diapragm to fit into the hose.

Anyone thats ever fitted a Typhoon hydraulic master cylinder will know how little space there is for keeping the horn in its original place. A Series 2 is probably the easiest on to make it all fit in with little or no modification to the horn. A Series 3 has a little less space but its possible to fit the cylinder in with the original horn still in place.

The most important part of fitting the cylinder is the fit of the front brake cable that works the cylinder, it needs to be smooth and not pull the brake on, when the headset turns. Its best routed across the headset coming down the near side of the fork tube, the smoother the curve of the cable will give less friction and a better front brake.

One of the problems with this conversion is removing the bottom headset to adjust the fork bearings, as the short front brake cable, having very little slack, means the front brake cable needs to be undone or loosened before the headset can clear the clamp from the forks.
An easy fix is to put an in-line adjuster in the cable, but it needs to be accessible. If you fit an adjuster as near to the handle bar lever in the top headset as possible (this is a straight section of cable) it will allow you to slacken off the cable enough to remove the headset if needed but also allows for adjustment of the brake without removing the horn cast.