Scooterotica

mine are italian sx200 links in jet200 forks, my headstock bearings are a bit notchy too.....time to buy a gts300....no, i didnt say that....time to rebuild the front end

Here's the offending links:

storkfoot wrote:Here's the offending links:

Were these jigged or held in position when welded i pre heat mine and clamp them flat when i do mine

right one definitely out of line

Steve, they were done at a well known dealers and I'm pretty sure they do have a jig to do these. Pity neither of us seemed to spot the wharp in them

what you have to bear in mind with this situation is basic leverage as I said before the further from the centre line the more force applied. It is correct that the lambretta drum or disc applies pressure to one link only, but in the original design the braking was designed to not exceed the performance of the suspension .the main reason lambretta brakes as std do not seem very good on a modern uprated much faster scooter is that they were only designed to work within the restrictions of the design which was designed around the performance reqs of the std scooter when new . even if you renew everything and make sure all components are matched there will still be more leverage applied to the suspension under braking on the calliper side due to the position of the calliper. we have found on our non anti dive billet hubs that supension dip on the calliper side is less with smaller disc and calliper but with no loss of braking performance . In fact using a smaller less aggressive calliper removes a lot of the pogo effect found on the large disc and calliper type hubs due to not fully compressing the suspension each time the brake is applied.On the cast billet tubless hub we make we have moved the disc inwards toward the centre line as far as the calliper we use allows ,this puts even less pressure on the retaining link side. Really the only way you can remove the bias is to fit anti dive this also allows you to use a nice soft spring set up that can absorb shocks not bounce around on uneven road surfaces.
When a brake is applied and the suspension compresses it cannot act as suspension the stronger the brake is the more the loss of suspension increases under braking this is why a properley set up anti dive system is a good modification as it allows the suspension to still work when braking.

storkfoot wrote:Here's the offending links:

They are GP links not Li do you have the push rod with the lose ball fitted ?

I think some confusion has come in here

jason frost wrote:
They are GP links not Li do you have the push rod with the lose ball fitted ?

Hiya, Jase. Yeah, I did have loose balls and the correct GP rods. I sorted it simply by getting some Italian GP drum links and getting the damper mounts welded on straight this time

How's the cutdown, mate? If you need any cash, send me a PM, mate Paul

storkfoot wrote:

jason frost wrote:
They are GP links not Li do you have the push rod with the lose ball fitted ?

Hiya, Jase. Yeah, I did have loose balls and the correct GP rods. I sorted it simply by getting some Italian GP drum links and getting the damper mounts welded on straight this time

How's the cutdown, mate? If you need any cash, send me a PM, mate Paul

I always need cash done abit more will send some pictures.