Scooterotica

westburyst wrote:hello,

i've gone for the grind and tap method as I do not have access to any of the tools for easy removal. but the tap ain't happening, collar is real stubborn. how hard? i do not want to hit it too hard as i do not want to cause any damage.

cheers

I couldn't remove mine with the grind and tap method either. In the end, I took it to John Howe (Jahspeed).
He tried to remove it with the correct tool but it still wouldn't budge. So the oxy torch came out for some localised heat, but even after that it was a bugger to get off even with the correct puller.

byron wrote: Heat this end then quickly grab the collar, the heat transfers to the collar and it just slips off. Uses the same in reverse to fit a new one.

They heat the coller to fit it?

jason frost wrote:

byron wrote: Heat this end then quickly grab the collar, the heat transfers to the collar and it just slips off. Uses the same in reverse to fit a new one.

They heat the coller to fit it?

of course you have to heat it - in boiling water...

No you don't have to. I knock mine on with a sundance grip holding the crank into my stomach. No heat needed.
To get the collar off I put masking tape around the seal face then a jubilee clip and grind a slot along the collar(along the same axis as the taper) with the dremel. I then rest it on a vice and give it a good tap with a cold chisel and the collar splits open. simples

i always heat up the inner tracks/collars when re fitting.....either with water or gentle heat
the heat expands them and makes it easier to fit them.....
...if you knock them on cold ....they can sometimes crack....
its the same with vespa ones.....and these are thinner than lambo inner collars...and even more prone to cracking ...which is why in the vespa haynes manual they recomend that the race is heated to 100 degrees C in oil........

I put the flywheel side crank cheek in the vise, so that crank isn't distorted, then just balance the race on the end of the crank, warm it up a bit, then flick it and it falls over the taper onto the race shoulder. If it doesn't just drop on, a quick tap with the proper device and it's home. Not a fan of boiling in water. Any moisture left on the inside of the race can oxidize and sieze the race to the crank, prolly what caused Bufficus problems.

Just for interest the steel used on bearings can be heated to about 200C without affecting the steels temper, a few crank shops will have a hot plate set to 150C to heat the bearings prior to fitting them.

Removing them when you want to is always the challenge