Scooterotica

Mel K wrote:I am going from 230 back to 225, the 230 was nothing but trouble,

What sort of trouble? and what crank where you using?

Cheers

sean brady scooters wrote:then why not just tune your ts1 225.........?
i dont know obviosly as yet your spec/set up ......but if its pretty normal .......then there are great gains to be had ............

Sean can you tune a TS1 barrel with out having to have it replated?

cheers

I've a TS1 230, MB RaceTour tune, 71 mm x 58 mm. This is due to repair, rebore and replating. A few mm of displacement can help some, but it's the tuning to the barrel that will bring more power.

A long stroke crank should produce more torque at the expense of vibration.

If you do decide to go for longstroke, buy one with a long rod as well and get another piston, it'll vibrate a lot less and make it more enjoyable to drive.

Ive ported a few New TS1's, Normally widening the Exhaust port to between 62-65% without damage to the remaining Nikasil Liner, and squaring up the transfers in the bore But they really shouldn't just be cut with a Tungsten Burr then left as the piston and rings Will quite often pick up on the remaining sharp edges...

I Port to within 0.5mm then finish with more forgiving grinding tools. Then coarse 80-120 and gradually smoother flap wheels, then very fine mini flap wheels 320 grit which give a smooth finish to the port edges, these can be bought in sizes down to 10mm width and usually up to 25mm in varying grades from 60-320 grit...

But its probably better if you can do the porting first, then re-plate...

J1MS wrote:Ive ported a few New TS1's, Normally widening the Exhaust port to between 62-65% without damage to the remaining Nikasil Liner, and squaring up the transfers in the bore But they really shouldn't just be cut with a Tungsten Burr then left as the piston and rings Will quite often pick up on the remaining sharp edges...

I Port to within 0.5mm then finish with more forgiving grinding tools. Then coarse 80-120 and gradually smoother flap wheels, then very fine mini flap wheels 320 grit which give a smooth finish to the port edges, these can be bought in sizes down to 10mm width and usually up to 25mm in varying grades from 60-320 grit...

But its probably better if you can do the porting first, then re-plate...

Yeah, I was under the impression that the Nikasil coating wrapped round the edges of the port windows a few mm into the ports, and that opening the ports up without re-lining could effect the wear resistance of the Nikasil where the rings run over the cut edge.

tony wrote:30 hp out of a ts1 martin? Or an rb?

TS1.

Interestingly, I spoke with Staurt Owen at IoW and he said that since the TS1 became available again, he's only done a couple of RB's, but he has done lots of TS1's.

GP Kevo wrote:A long stroke crank should produce more torque at the expense of vibration.

Not necessarily... I've run a TS1 230 for a couple of years now and the engine is super smooth!

It's an AF 60mm crank used with an MB piston.

Previously I used to use a Rapido 225 top end. With the standard ASSO piston it was fairly slow and lumpy, but when I changed to an MB forged piston (which was much lighter) the engine was transformed! It seemed more powerful... but became much much smoother