Scooterotica

GeorgeS wrote: ↑Fri Sep 08, 2017 2:53 pm Have you considered the RLC x260 seal plate with the viton ring? I've not used one myself but they look good, if a little expensive.

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Funnily enough I was just reading about that plate the other day. I think it must have been on the SULK site maybe.
I could never justify that cost though. Looks to me like something invented initially for the racing community maybe ? those blokes have their engines in and out more times than I eat every day

i'm sure that if a stock steel plate and gasket is fitted correctly with due care and attention it will seal perfectly well just as all the thousands of Lambrettas have that were produced by the factory.

When I started doing these (only last year) but I've done quite a few in that time including another two this week Harry Barlow told me to use grease which I have always done and so for have not had any problems.
I always do a leak down test before I go any further once the crank is in and the cylinder is fitted, apart from anything else it gives me peace of mind that the hellite seal is doing its job.

garry inglis wrote: ↑Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:38 am As grumpy says add a bit of loctite to the screws and check it's level

On a side but sort of related note I've gotten away from using loctite on those mount points. In my experience its caused more problems than its cured. Oddly enough using anti-seize grease allows you to get the screw tight enough with out fear of it coming loose. It has to do with dis-similar metals, the reduction of friction on the threads and the potential for galling.


Also have been using anti seize on the rim/hub nuts with no problems.

what an amazing co-incidence !
Tonight I have just bought the September issue of Scootering and it includes a seperate booklet with the whole of the Bang for Buck series by Darryl .
In part 6 Darry talks about his preference for using the original steel Drive plate and goes on to say
quote " The next issue is oil seal plate gasket which, upon fitting the oil seal plate , must compress the gasket" ( bold type is mine)

" This can be checked before by measuring the rebate depth down to the bearing face then measuring the oil seal plate spigot and doing a quick calculation....."
Darrl goes on to state that one should select either a 0.5mm or a 1mm thick gasket depending on the gap between the plate spigot and bearing face to ensure that the gasket is properly compressed.

This is exactly what I determined when assessing how best to ensure there was no chance of a leak past the drive side oil seal plate gasket.

As Darryl says having seen a number of failures in this area its worth the extra effort at the build stage rather than having to fix a leak issue later .

Thoroughly reccommend you grab a September copy of Scootering to get this free comprehensive booklet its a brilliant read