exhaust keeps leaking
So with the thick copper i can apply the gasket seal aswell? the black gunge seems to be dripping from one of the nuts as well as the u-bend (the latter i have tried so many things) i have ordered some of high temp stuff, can this go between manifold + gasket, the u-bend join (with addition of a clamp, as i find the springs arent doing much)?
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dapper
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Hi Dru, just to let you know that I recently had a parting of my ScootRS exhaust manifold flange from the rest of the downpipe causing a seize and a F**ked piston 
The exhaust manifold flange was still bolted to the cylinder, but the downpipe cracked around the weld and was spotted 30 yards down the road. It's worth carrying spare slip joint springs as they can disappear sometimes. It may be possible after putting it all on to wrap some wire around the springs to stop them coming off. 
It's all about making sure that the face of the exhaust outlet on the cylinder is perfectly flat with no casting marks/spurs/ridges etc. and that the solid type exhaust gasket is perfectly flat (and annealed as Special X states) and that the exhaust manifold flange on the downpie is perfectly flat as well. With the silicone in between every surface, as well as checking that there is enough thread on the studs to prevent bottoming out of the brass nuts, which should go on round side first, with the other nut fairly right up and a flat washer underneath and then the spring washer. Tighten the awkward side first then the other.Shocky's tip for the bent over tab washer to stop the nuts coming loose is a good one.
The exhaust manifold flange was still bolted to the cylinder, but the downpipe cracked around the weld and was spotted 30 yards down the road. It's worth carrying spare slip joint springs as they can disappear sometimes. It may be possible after putting it all on to wrap some wire around the springs to stop them coming off. It's all about making sure that the face of the exhaust outlet on the cylinder is perfectly flat with no casting marks/spurs/ridges etc. and that the solid type exhaust gasket is perfectly flat (and annealed as Special X states) and that the exhaust manifold flange on the downpie is perfectly flat as well. With the silicone in between every surface, as well as checking that there is enough thread on the studs to prevent bottoming out of the brass nuts, which should go on round side first, with the other nut fairly right up and a flat washer underneath and then the spring washer. Tighten the awkward side first then the other.Shocky's tip for the bent over tab washer to stop the nuts coming loose is a good one.
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dapper and everyone thanks. Somehow it feels to me as though its too heavy for itself and is pulling at the manifold, even though i have it bolted properely, it feels as though there ought to be something near the endcan holding it to the scoot if you know what i mean. i will try what you've recommened tho
even tho i hate the thought of taking off those damn running boards again, again, again............................................................
even tho i hate the thought of taking off those damn running boards again, again, again............................................................
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dapper
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- Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 5:30 pm
- Main scooter: The Biriani Bullet
- Location: Brighton (well Hove actually)
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Leave the running boards off until you're sure it's all OK. It's worth taking your time over fitting any exhaust and ensuring that it is not being distorted/stressed when all the brackets/downpipe is bolted up. I know it may take time fettling but it will extend the life of the exhaust.
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yep you're right Dapper. In hindsight if i had done this when i got it I would have saved a lot of time.
Druist - i got fed up of the brass exhaust nuts coming loose too. Now i fit the longer M7 studs ( x 33mm i seem to recall) and now fit a spring washer plus 2 plain steel nuts on each stud - which can be locked together too. MB recommended this to me and so far so good.
soullad did you use any washers with the studs, and are we talking the rounded hex looking ss ones or different?
Springs: i got another set much later from scootrs as they were cheap and was ordering anyway. though am not sure which would be the best to use, the old ones are more well made but longer and of a tapered design - not your basic spring - the newer ones are thinner and smaller, logic tells me the older ones but the smaller ones would mean more tension thus pulling on the two halves - anyone ?
Springs: i got another set much later from scootrs as they were cheap and was ordering anyway. though am not sure which would be the best to use, the old ones are more well made but longer and of a tapered design - not your basic spring - the newer ones are thinner and smaller, logic tells me the older ones but the smaller ones would mean more tension thus pulling on the two halves - anyone ?