If the price is the same then I'd go for the AC/DC option as the stator is the same as the AC only one, just with an extra wire at one end of the lighting coils (wire comes out of the stator, rather than being earthed on the stator). To run the AC/DC as AC you simply put the extra wire to earth externally. To run it DC you take the extra wire to a rectifier, rather than earth. This is the same method that many of the Spanish Motoplat 12V systems used.
If there is a big price difference then go for the cheaper one. If the AC only is cheaper, you still have the option of converting it to DC later, simply by unsoldering one joint and adding the extra length of wire.
I've recently changed my DC bikes back to AC as battery problems were an extra hassle that I didn't need and the little extra performance was not worth the hassle IMO. I rarely find myself needing to put up my tent in the dark, in silence, and a swap to an LED rear bulb normally results in the AC having more than enough power to stop the headlight from dimming when you brake for corners at speed (!).
Each to their own... you just decide what you want.
Adam
Electronic ignition conversion - AC or DC?
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Adam_Winstone
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Then stick with AC and buy an AC compatible LED rear lamp.Nerdy Norm wrote:I don't really want to fit a battery unless it's necessary. I'd prefer to keep it as simple as possible, but with the best performance.
The only non-standard thing I would like is the LED tail-lamp.
- Monty
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The term electronic ignition refers to the use of a trigger sensor and a CDI. This replaces your old style points and coil. This is all related to your ignition (Spark only) It usually entails going to 12v lighting (but not compulsory) Most Lambretta's run AC Lighting some had a battery but they tended to be for the Tail light parking light the regulator would output AC for everything with a small DC feed to top up the battery as you ride.. That been said with sat navs, digital speedos and folk being generally dissapointed with crap lights that flicker when you are at junctions, it's become common practice to change the system to run all the electrics at DC just like a car. With a Replacment regulator about the same price as your BGM, and a small addition to a standard stator you can run everything DC. The AC/DC stator you mention simply has an extra wire that if you are running AC you connect it to ground then it's the same as a standard one. The regulator you have shown is a modern version of a standard AC regulator it also has a DC trickle function for a battery. Your lights will still be AC and will flicker on tick over hence why a lot then start to look at LED Lamps as they use less power. If we are taking standard LED lamps they may or may not work on AC but are designed to work on DC.. THE Bgm light boards tend to have a built in AC/DC converter to work. Unfortunately the AC voltage can still be a bit erratic so a lot have lost sections of these boards with LEDs that no longer work.. When we talk about going full DC we use the extra wire and a special regulator made by Wassel or others. It a well tried system Designed to replace the zenner diode setup used on those greasy motorbikes of old. They output 13.5vDC enough to then recharge your battery just like a car. The most important point is that when you are only ticking over the battery is topping up the power so your lights work as normal. No flickering. All LEDS WORK CORRECTLY. the battery acts like a buffer so you don't get the peaks and troughs that AC give. DC is a must fit for me but it's your choice. Others can give you the technicals better than me and some of the above is are generalisations but trying to give you a heads up. A lot think keep it standard but going DC is dragging a Lammie into the light, literally.
Ps your wires, switches etc will work AC or DC and you don't have to run a battery Though it is better, it does not have to be a massive old style wet battery. They have improved over the last 50 years as well.
Also as above replays just go the same as your other bike.
Ps your wires, switches etc will work AC or DC and you don't have to run a battery Though it is better, it does not have to be a massive old style wet battery. They have improved over the last 50 years as well.
Also as above replays just go the same as your other bike.
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Nerdy Norm
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Many thanks for all your valuable input fellas, I'm going to weigh up my options now I've got a better idea of everything.
Lambretta LI125 Series 2, Lambretta LI150 Series 3, Lambretta J100 Cento, LML Star 150 2T
