Re: GT200 - reedblock frame clearance - offset cones?
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 4:09 pm
Sorted. The GT kit went into a Spanish Jet200. My rear shock was 295mm. I went for an easy replacement option, the 2003-2004 Yamaha R6 shock. The other years are longer, but for these 2 years the shock is 295mm. There are already excellent desciptions how do to the conversion and I'm very pleased with mine.
When the engine is off, replace your frame cones with offset ones. If you look at where your engine mounting points are you will see some fat donut washer-like cones in there. They will pop out. Offset cones are thicker on one side and buy you another few millimeters of clearance. Clean the space where the cones fit. Before you put the new cones in, try sliding them onto the long threaded frame bolt. If too tight, spread the cone a bit with a screw driver. The offset cones have to go in exactly verticle, fat side towards the top. This has the effect of lowering the engine. You can use the slit in the cone to help you line it up with the top of the frame tube. But when you are putting the rod back in you dont want the cones to rotate. I used some gasket maker as I had it on hand. Put it in the frame tube, sat the cones in, let it sit over night. Next day there were firmly held in place. I have read you can also use threadlocker or similar. When you install the engine you dont have to worry about the cones moving. When you tighen the nuts on the rod the tension holds everything tight. Dont forget to grease the rod.
In the past I typically use MB Race-tour carb manifold rubbers. With our really crappy roads in Toronto from frost heave and I find I go through carb mounting rubbers quickly. It doesnt help that I have a relatively heavy but high quality K&N filter on the end of the elbow bellows. The MB rubbers are very thick and strong. The problem here is they use up the clearance between the manifold and where the engine mounts to the frame. If you look at this point, you can see there is a collar to it. I ground some off. I cant see this impacting structural integrity. Your other option is go with thinner carb mounting rubbers, and if you use a foam filter and elbow go with a light one such as the Breath-sweet or Evergreen one.
If you do grind some of the aluminum down, you will have to use a dremel or power drill with a grinding wheel. Just slow the speed down otherwise you will quickly just plug the pores of the grinding surface.
Pictures showing this below. You could probably avoid all this if you cut the battery tray off and run the carb out the right side. I just didnt want to do that.
BTW, I am very happy with the performance of this kit. Im still running it in so I dont know my top speed but it pulls like a train. Its a very noticeable improvement in HP over the stage 4 tune I had.
When the engine is off, replace your frame cones with offset ones. If you look at where your engine mounting points are you will see some fat donut washer-like cones in there. They will pop out. Offset cones are thicker on one side and buy you another few millimeters of clearance. Clean the space where the cones fit. Before you put the new cones in, try sliding them onto the long threaded frame bolt. If too tight, spread the cone a bit with a screw driver. The offset cones have to go in exactly verticle, fat side towards the top. This has the effect of lowering the engine. You can use the slit in the cone to help you line it up with the top of the frame tube. But when you are putting the rod back in you dont want the cones to rotate. I used some gasket maker as I had it on hand. Put it in the frame tube, sat the cones in, let it sit over night. Next day there were firmly held in place. I have read you can also use threadlocker or similar. When you install the engine you dont have to worry about the cones moving. When you tighen the nuts on the rod the tension holds everything tight. Dont forget to grease the rod.
In the past I typically use MB Race-tour carb manifold rubbers. With our really crappy roads in Toronto from frost heave and I find I go through carb mounting rubbers quickly. It doesnt help that I have a relatively heavy but high quality K&N filter on the end of the elbow bellows. The MB rubbers are very thick and strong. The problem here is they use up the clearance between the manifold and where the engine mounts to the frame. If you look at this point, you can see there is a collar to it. I ground some off. I cant see this impacting structural integrity. Your other option is go with thinner carb mounting rubbers, and if you use a foam filter and elbow go with a light one such as the Breath-sweet or Evergreen one.
If you do grind some of the aluminum down, you will have to use a dremel or power drill with a grinding wheel. Just slow the speed down otherwise you will quickly just plug the pores of the grinding surface.
Pictures showing this below. You could probably avoid all this if you cut the battery tray off and run the carb out the right side. I just didnt want to do that.
BTW, I am very happy with the performance of this kit. Im still running it in so I dont know my top speed but it pulls like a train. Its a very noticeable improvement in HP over the stage 4 tune I had.