Camel, was there any reason why you went for the wider conrod? From J1MS's chart it looks like your conrod may be 16mm as opposed to the RD350/250 15mm.
Paul
TS1 crank______Which Yamaha RD conrod?
its def 110 as im using a 3mm packer,youll find the yam rod is slightly wider than the std lam one,cant rem the exact measurment i took,basically i measuered the std std width of the crank,broady pins are 1mm longer to give extra clearance to the flywheel to the stator(then 0.5mm needs to be taken off the mag housing}
one thing i forgot to mention,i used the orig yam pin,now its much wider than the lam one,so i had to machine it to the correct length,...to be honest unless i worked in a toolroom i wouldnt dream of trying to do this myself.
its not completely straight forward too replace the lam rod for a yam rod due to the slight increase in rod width and pin width.
if the crank hasnt been run,and you can separate the crank,you should be able to use the orig lam pin which might be easier
one thing i forgot to mention,i used the orig yam pin,now its much wider than the lam one,so i had to machine it to the correct length,...to be honest unless i worked in a toolroom i wouldnt dream of trying to do this myself.
its not completely straight forward too replace the lam rod for a yam rod due to the slight increase in rod width and pin width.
if the crank hasnt been run,and you can separate the crank,you should be able to use the orig lam pin which might be easier
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Bufficus
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Loads of Yamaha conrods available here abot £35
http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha_Parts.html
Here's one I did with some 60mm AF webs and an RD 350 rod (cant remember which 350)
Needed to machine the webs and because I was using 60mm webs the big end protruded past by about 1mm.
But a you can see from the picture it is very strong.
PJME also do lining and replating.
http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha_Parts.html
Here's one I did with some 60mm AF webs and an RD 350 rod (cant remember which 350)
Needed to machine the webs and because I was using 60mm webs the big end protruded past by about 1mm.
But a you can see from the picture it is very strong.
PJME also do lining and replating.
Thats one Ive used aswell... But there are a few you can use off that lisit of Yamaha rod kits, some require mods to crank, and/or rod... Ive also used one of the Kawasaki rod kits in the past... my brother used a Honda rod kit from here, for his Smallframe... If you contact Grampian, Im sure they will send you an up to date catalogue, with all these specs and more I should think.... they really are a big importer of piston and rod kits... they are also a rebore specialist for motorcycles and will rebuild cranks as well...camel wrote:i have the receipt from grampian for the rod kit i used,it sais 125ypvs rod kit(34x)
its a 110 rod
i had to machine the inside of the webs slightly as its slightly wider,plus it comes with 1mm shims,i used the brass 0.5 shims that were origionally with the lam crank
you can build it slightly wider than the std lam crank..i think its 0.5mm,but you have to use 2 mag housing gaskets
the total price at the time was £32.49 for the rod kit
hope this helps
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byron
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so what did you do ?Bufficus wrote:...Needed to machine the webs and because I was using 60mm webs the big end protruded past by about 1mm...
I have had an RD400 rod fitted to 60mm AF "Race" webs. I wasn't going to do anything further to the crank, but was planning on cutting a groove in the casing for the big end
i know of a good local engineer who has the latest grampian book and will happily order for you byron 
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Bufficus
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Removed .5mm from each web and used .5mm thrust washers due to the increased width of the big end. I then removed material from the crankcase using a lap wheel, so that the protruding big end could turn in the case. Some people just grind the big end down so that it fits in the case. I didn't fancy that.byron wrote:so what did you do ?Bufficus wrote:...Needed to machine the webs and because I was using 60mm webs the big end protruded past by about 1mm...
I have had an RD400 rod fitted to 60mm AF "Race" webs. I wasn't going to do anything further to the crank, but was planning on cutting a groove in the casing for the big end
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byron
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thanks, I have no intention of grinding the rod, that would just be crazy.Bufficus wrote:Removed .5mm from each web and used .5mm thrust washers due to the increased width of the big end. I then removed material from the crankcase using a lap wheel, so that the protruding big end could turn in the case. Some people just grind the big end down so that it fits in the case. I didn't fancy that.
how much metal did you need to remove ? presumably a groove all the way around the casing is required. And, as I think eden wrote, any extra needed to actually get the crank in ? It would be nice to do all that work before I fit the bearings and crank...
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byron
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cheers mark, I think I know who you mean.mark wrote:i know of a good local engineer who has the latest grampian book and will happily order for you byron
he's already done my crank, you've seen it
i have havent i lol 