Scooterotica

chris is right, get the piston bore clearance measured properly unless if you bought it as kit, ask the shop if they checked it. chances are they didn't.
My SR kit was the same in the transfers. its very difficult to remove that, and you may be unlucky, wholly dependent on your set up, that the top edge of the transfers, on the liner, which is where to measure your transfer timing from, may be quite high due to misalignment of the sleeve/liner. As said, this is wholly dependent on the difference between top of barrel and top of piston. The roof of the transfer port is also a critical area for proper running. the casting on these kits is pretty bad, but so is trying to fit a right angled cheap dremel in there for a DIY job. Unless taken to a man with the right tools and the right knowledge, leave them as is. (if you do take it to a tuner, as opposed to getting the right instruments and reading a few books, maybe look over the rest of the 'tidy up/tune' and see what timings you are running, just to get the best picture of what youre working with)

3mm packer? what piston crank combo have you gone for then?

Took the cylinder to local machine shop that does rebores and have the proper measuring kit and piston to bore clearance is .05 mm or 1.97 thou in old money. So I think a little tight and worth getting honed slightly?
Have attached some more pictures of the cylinder. The dealer did some cleaning up on it but think it needs more especially in the transfer ports. There will be a good 2 stroke tuner here somewhere it's just a matter of finding them!
I'm using a GP crank with 110 Yamaha rod done locally. Any checks that should be done to this before its fitted? From my understanding 110 rod requires the 3mm packing plate .
Cheers
Tippo


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as regards the piston to bore clearance, the existing figure is certainly tight.

I have run one of these sleeved alloy barrels on 2 1/2 thou, but you have to be very careful running in- Realistically 3 thou seems to work better for me subject to my running in regime as outlined a couple of posts up.. Also initially run 4% mixture on a good semi synthetic like Rock Oil Strawberry. When run in revert back to 3% and don't be afraid of giving it a bit of brief "welly" from time to time on run in.

As regards your other queries someone more qualified than me will be along shortly (hopefully!)

Let us know how it goes

Chris

I would at the least chamfer those port edges. Yes you'll need a 3mm packer but it depends where your piston sits in relation to top of barrel, which will have an affect on your port timings and then what head gasket if any you need to set the squish.

Thanks for your help guys . I'll get the bore honed next week , look for someone to do some porting and will do a port map. Will be a couple of weeks before I get to do the dry build and will update as it progresses.


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it will definitely be worth it in the end, it helps a bunch to be methodical, particularly with barrels that are of questionable quality out of the box. I run the same indian ally barrel, and with a small amount of work they can be great, but I wouldnt call them an out of the box solution as they can be rough as anything. good luck, and look forward to seeing what timings your running. when you post the timings, let us know what the rest of your set up is, as we may be able to offer advice on what will work best.

Should have carried on in this thread but have new thread with port timings etc here:
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=36016
Looking like all the work I've had done on the cylinder may have been a waste of time, should have done a port map and dry build first! Lesson learned!