Scooterotica

rosscla wrote:Agree that cluster is gubbed. I had one like that. I got the repair sleeve from Broady and took it to a local engineer to machine it and press fit the bush. Total cost I think about £27.

Thanks. I think I'm going to try to clean it up a little first just to ascertain the exact amount of damage. I will post results once done

Snails wrote:
Thanks. I think I'm going to try to clean it up a little first just to ascertain the exact amount of damage. I will post results once done

That's what I'd do.

Rod is SIL, blue heat marks are normal on big end from fitting pin. Choice is to sell the crank on, may get about £40 on Ebay or get it re-rodded with a Yamaha 110 rod and use a 3mm base packer under the cylinder. SIL webs look crap but are actually very strong, probably better than MEC race ones. My choice would be to get it re-rodded, I've got about 6 of them and that's my plan for them.

Yes I am going to try to call a few shops now and get some prices

I had a few mins spare last night so thought I would start the process of matching the inlet port of my barrel to the manifold. I've never done this before so it was interesting. In my mind I was thinking I could mark the shape of the manifold on the gasket and then cut it to fit but I could not think of an easy way to do this so I ended up just pinching the gasket to manifold with my fingers and then carving it to the right shape. Dont think the result was too bad, I am wondering whether I should now remove the excess metal from the manifold? I mean the area circled in the picture below



It also crossed my mind that in order to do the same with the exhaust port if I'm going to use my existing pipe from my scooter I will have to remove it. Bummer as that is one of my least favourite jobs on a lammy

Also I have a spare front drum hub knocking around. I'm wondering if I can take the shoes and pins etc from it and fit them my new engine?

What about the jap bearing SIL cranks that Scooter restorations do?

http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... d-bearing/

Would they look similar to snails crank? got a SIL GP crank myself which I scored second hand off ebay, the bloke before was running it on a muggy engine and I think its the Jap bearing type but don't know how to tell

scooterslag wrote:What about the jap bearing SIL cranks that Scooter restorations do?

http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... d-bearing/

Would they look similar to snails crank? got a SIL GP crank myself which I scored second hand off ebay, the bloke before was running it on a muggy engine and I think its the Jap bearing type but don't know how to tell

That does look very similar to mine, with the fresh/clean metal on the rod (although maybe that's normal on all rods when fitted?). Think I purchased mine about 8 years ago so maybe the SR one, depending on how long its taken them to sell a limited run of 500.

To lay out where to machine/grind I recommend liberally applying an indelible marker to the surface and scribing your line using a gasket as a template. It works for me.

guygrrr wrote:To lay out where to machine/grind I recommend liberally applying an indelible marker to the surface and scribing your line using a gasket as a template. It works for me.

Thanks I will do. What about matching the inlet to the gasket. I know this is a bit back to front but is it worthwhile?

Yr not really going to see any noticeable gains, but it's easy enough to do and every little bit helps.

Yes make the gasket match the barrel then use a marker and scribe as stated to mark out the manifold, then get the Drexel out.