Scooterotica

Agent Buchwald wrote:You were running round your rear sprocket?

Yes with an abrasive material dizzy work mind

I use a straight edge (piece of solid steel) across the casing - then measure down with the verniers to the tooth on back sprocket then move to the front - I only adjust on the back if required.

To be honest I never used to bother.

I still don't to get to uptight about - as long as its not massively different.

I think the better the spec/bhp the more need for precision at every point - a humble 125 as opposed to a RB 250 example

Did every engine from factory (Italy and India) have the chain aligned using a bracket and dial gauge ?

It seems as i was using the same method as everyone else , but was getting a different result every time , it`s going in my ts 240 with cyclone , i am just re-building it after a layshaft needle bearing failure , and the only thing that survived was the gearbox , so attempting to build as accurately as possible

gaz_powell wrote:I use a straight edge (piece of solid steel) across the casing - then measure down with the verniers to the tooth on back sprocket then move to the front - I only adjust on the back if required.

To be honest I never used to bother.

I still don't to get to uptight about - as long as its not massively different.

I think the better the spec/bhp the more need for precision at every point - a humble 125 as opposed to a RB 250 example

Did every engine from factory (Italy and India) have the chain aligned using a bracket and dial gauge ?

I get the rear as low as possible so that the clutch doesnt touch the kickstart and then find a drive sleeve somewere near and then figure of 8 it on emery sheet till its spot on prob doesnt mater on my motor but I have time to do it so why not