snapped kickstart shaft

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olliewtf
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looks like its something that just happens from time to time then... just been unlucky with the fact that it buggered me casing too. and i hear you when you say it would always be niggling at the back of my mind if not welded! I will definitely take one of you guys up on the offer of kickstart shaft, that's really kind of you and it helps alot.
I need to make a plan as to how im going to tackle this, so in the next few weeks ill be in contact and hopefully i can get my scoot back o the road just when the weather gets really s**t!
dennis
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p155 poor and own a Lambretta,you are a brave man.
olliewtf
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tell me about it! Well im not sure about brave, I nearly shed a tear today, all i needed to do was put on a new brake light switch and rear tyre!
eden
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I had one brake on my GP early morning setting off for the Modra rally in Dorset, i had to take the winter model because no time to fix it.
its a s**t breakdown to have for sure!
olliewtf
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well at least ive nearly ticked them all off lol
oneday
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If the casing is cleaned well and you leave the jb weld to set at least 24 hours from memory, it will work with no leaks. Used it on casings and fixing petrol taps to bike tanks with no problems.
olliewtf
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i agree that would be a quick and easy fix, but the crack has moved the two parts away from each other so i feel theres some pressure there splitting the two apart if that makes sense. also id be worried of the crack getting longer... plus i think my gearbox really wants rebuilding and this is a pretty opportune moment. As much as Im dreading not using it for a while, and as unsure as I am where the moneys going to come from, I think itll be better in the long run to sort it properly. Because I know myself very well and if the jb weld works okay ill never ever get round to having it properly welded!
that is to say, unless anyone thinks jb weld could definitely sort that out and im being overcautious getting it welded? (i think i can guess what the answer will be unfortunately)
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carlos fandango
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Id clean it with petrol and use JB weld ......well i wouldnt ! id get it welded, but if it was my only form of transport then i would :)
Whats the worst that would happen ? it will leak oil and would need redoing or welding ?
If i was really in a jam i would put a bolt and some penny washers through the kickstart shaft hole and just bump it , untill i could get it fixed :)
When i was young my Mom said "if you haven't got anything nice to say, say nothing at all " ..................... and people wonder why I'm quiet around them !
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coaster
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The crack will need to be opened up by running a hacksaw blade along it then drill a small hole at the end to stop it spreading. This will allow the two sides of the crack to align as they are distorted at the moment. Thoroughly clean the area inside and out and stick some gaffer tape under the split. Then apply the JB Weld, its quite runny so you might also need to make a little mould to contain it while it sets. 24 hours to fully harden but it should partially go off in a few hours. When it's set you will be able to file/sand the JB Weld back flush with the gasket face. I sealed the sump pan on my 3ltr Marcos all the way round (I had cut and shut it but my welding is pants) with the stuff, used 2 packs and that was back in 2005 and it's still going strong several thousand miles later. I also have Holts Plastic Metal sealing a hole in the underside of the fuel tank and that's been there since 1992 :shock:

Re the ebay kick starts, it is probably a bit hit and miss but I have one on a TS1 which has been absolutely fine despite me having to grind a lot of it away (right in the area that yours snapped) because it was fouling on my 5 plate clutch. The kickstart recently stopped engaging so I assumed that it had broken and bought another only to find that the problem was just that the teeth on the piston had broken.....didn't need either of the 2 new 1st gears I bought either :oops: Anyway, if the shaft is any good to you then you are welcome but it would be best if you measure the length from the end of the splines to the flange just to make sure you get the right length.
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