Scooterotica

GLscoot wrote:Let us know how you get on with the reed valve, because I have a tuned LML engine and I think they are brilliant.

Going off topic but is there any scope for uprating the reed on an LML? The standard one seems rather small

paul d wrote:

LI150 wrote:Crank and reed valve ordered. Going to start a thread on the whole build. Hopefully will be of interest to some and I can gain some advice as I continue in the never ending development of my humble p200 engine

Looking forward to reading the thread on your build. Tempted to reed my 172 but I'm wondering is the hp increase worth the effort...Good luck with it!

My 210 malossi goes very well on rotary induction. But this scoot has always been work in progress and will it be worth it I cant say but hey I want to do it. To be honest I ride my Series 2 more and its a lot slower but I just enjoy seeing what I can do with this scoot.

looking forward to seeing how you get on,plenty of pictures of course

Seems a shame to do the reed valve work to set of good casings if the rotary valve is working okay.

Casings pop up all the time with knackered inlet pads.

I've got a work in progress to use a modified lml reed block on a set of 200 casings that had a badly damaged inlet. Have made the spacer and machined down the reed blockto suit. Need to get round to matching the casing and bottom box...... One day !

Gaz

well happy with my Malossi T5 motor I'm currently running, but if I need another motor in the future, itll be based on LML reed casings, and probably Polini 177, 26mm carb and SIP road pipe. did one for a mate and it was class to ride.

coaster wrote:

GLscoot wrote:Let us know how you get on with the reed valve, because I have a tuned LML engine and I think they are brilliant.

Going off topic but is there any scope for uprating the reed on an LML? The standard one seems rather small

Reminded me of a post I'd read where the guy had taken the trouble to measure the cross-sectional area of a fully open LML reed vs a Vforce RD350 type reed.

i measured the tip area on the stock reed. - 10mm by 30mm, and that's with the reed stops bent slightly open.

total cross sectional area, 300 sq mm.

an SI 20mm bore? 314 sq mm.

an SI 24mm bore? 452 sq mm.

that's why i recommend staying with the 20 on the stock manifold.

and on the Vforce? 20x50 (or more, depending on stops), so 1000 sq mm.

http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic126235

goldeneye wrote: rather cut me cock off than give in and get a GTS. its like the VW scene, have a proper one or have a new snide one that will always have you making excuses.

The most intelligent, well written post I have read on here.

If anyone is struggling to make a decision on reed or rotary here is my two penneth.
It all depends what you are trying to do. If you want a carb bigger than 30mm then reed valve is the only way, no choice. Up to a 30mm carb a correctly modified rotary induction always gives more top end power. Reed induction will always give more mid range whatever size carb.

gavi4t wrote:does anyone in the vespa fraternity really give a toss anymore as they've took the easy way out and bought a gts 4stroke ?

four stroke tractors for old geezas bollax to the ozone strokers rule that's what it says on my scoot