Which ignition retard

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Rick
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Sounds like the mtech is the punters Choice but Adam solved the same problem with an agusto.. Which is easer to set we have a strobe but Ron Moss being local is probably a far better idea. It's a shame we don't have a dyno nearby.

Thanks for the replies

Warrick
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Anyone used the kheper
https://sites.google.com/site/kheperignitioncopy/

Or does timbo know something we don't :lol:
TS1 and PX stay in the garage (future barn finds) out on the GTS 300 when I go out on a scooter.
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Minority
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recently fitted the Kytronic to mine, neat installation with no extra wiring required and worked straight away with the curves dialling in exactly as they said (as far as I could see). I like the way it stops retarding further when it gets to the set revs, plenty of choices of curves as well.
Train Driver
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Minority wrote:recently fitted the Kytronic to mine, neat installation with no extra wiring required and worked straight away with the curves dialling in exactly as they said (as far as I could see). I like the way it stops retarding further when it gets to the set revs, plenty of choices of curves as well.
Have you worked out how to do your own programs
TS1 and PX stay in the garage (future barn finds) out on the GTS 300 when I go out on a scooter.
I know I’ll get there and back
Adam_Winstone
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I do like the idea of having a range of ignition curves to choose from, however, for many people (myself included) this would just be something else to waste time on, trying all the different profiles to see if I could find betterment. I tried an Agusto 8K unit on my Avanti/Supertourer/30PHBH/4.8:1 and that the engine temp would rise when cruising, indicating that it was not sufficiently retarded at my cruising speed. Fitting a 6K brought the temps back down at cruising but gave me a MUCH improved throttle response and grunt from launch and right up to the point where the pipe comes on the power and continues to return healthy mid to top end power too... a win, win, win situation.

I did have to richen up the carburation to suit and strobing showed that the 8K and 6K units gave a very different firing point for the same stator position, which shows how important it is to strobe a (any) advance/retard kit. As already mentioned, I did have to seriously extend the stator adjustment slots in order to get the range of variation that I was after (ended up being something like 24 to 14 degrees)... bolting on without reworking the adjustment slots, even on max adjustment, would have resulted in the timing being miles out and giving really poor results. I imagine that a number of people have tried one on their existing static set-up and thought that they were completely rubbish, which they would be without finding the correct max advance and max retard points and then strobing the motor to see the firing point swing from one to t'other.

As they say in the media, "Other brands are available.", and having a range of ignition curves/profiles to choose from is a good idea to avoid getting the wrong fixed profile for your motor (e.g. me initially buying an 8K unit because that's what I had in mind would work). However, having 10 different profiles can lead to 10 x the confusion and chance of getting it wrong!

The 6K unit worked very well for my engine and requirements... so much so that I bought a second one to fit to another scoot. That said, I didn't feel the need to buy an advance/retard ignition when I was running the Avanti with a JL3 or a number of other pipes, only feeling the need when I moved to the Supertourer and found that it had become completely gutless at low revs! The 6K has allowed me to bridge that gap between low revs around town and getting to the higher revs that the pipe works best at.

I've had 4 different versions of early advance/retard kits previously and they are all sitting on the shelf :( as they either didn't work (being instructed to keep swapping out flywheels, pickup boxes and LT coils until they did!) or didn't suit the motor that I was trying them on. The good thing about the more recent generation of bolt-on advance/retard units is that you can try them with your existing set-up and take them back off and return to static timing if you don't get on with it.

Good luck with it.

Adam
Minority
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Train Driver wrote:
Minority wrote:recently fitted the Kytronic to mine, neat installation with no extra wiring required and worked straight away with the curves dialling in exactly as they said (as far as I could see). I like the way it stops retarding further when it gets to the set revs, plenty of choices of curves as well.
Have you worked out how to do your own programs
Got the Smartbooster, so no user programming AFAIK.
Rick
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Great post Adam have ordered the agusto.. I just want some of the bottom end back I'm happy when it gets on the revs.. A smaller gap between 3 & 4th would be nice but that's for another day
Adam_Winstone
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Rick,

Please note my comments about the importance of strobing and modifying the stator adjustment slots (if necessary... probably) to allow you to get the range of adjustment that you're looking for. Get the timing right, adjust the jetting to suit, and you should have a scoot that has much improved low rev power and is much nicer to ride.

Let us know how you get on.

Adam
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Micky Tapp
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I have been reading this thread with interest and I have a question. Going back to basics is the point of the variable timing boxes that they allow advance retard through the rev range whereas a ordinary ignition, mine being a 12 v conversion stator, is fixed and remains static the through the rev range?
Minority
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Micky Tapp wrote:I have been reading this thread with interest and I have a question. Going back to basics is the point of the variable timing boxes that they allow advance retard through the rev range whereas a ordinary ignition, mine being a 12 v conversion stator, is fixed and remains static the through the rev range?
Yes
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