Scooterotica

Before filling check with a timing light

jason frost wrote:Before filling check with a timing light

Yes absolutely agree .

That was one improvement of the BGM flywheel - the timimg marks are correct (although I still strobed it to be sure )

Angry Bloke wrote:I've always had to extend the slots on indian or BGM stators in order to set the timimg at 17deg.

I recently fitted a new BGM flywheel but still had to extend the slots on a new BGM DC stator to get 17 - I checked keyway position against other flywheels and it was in the same position

I wonder if BGM assume we are all using retard units these days and therefore setting timing at 24ish thus avoiding the need to slot ................Or was it too expensive to change the slots in the mold

That's really weird, I have never once had to file the slots in a stator in order to hit 17 btdc. Set up lots of BGM and SIL stators with various flywheels. The only time I had a stator that wouldn't time was with an API combo and the taper was riveted in the wrong position on the flywheel. Drilled out the rivets and reset the taper in the correct position. There is a diagram in Stickys I think that shows the correct trigger position on a flywheel. Something like 5 o'clock when the key is at 9 o'clock. Double check this though.

As always check with a timing gun as the trigger marks are always off on the flywheel (SIL, API and later AF).

I've been using the strobe as i thought the stator shouldn't need adjusting as much as it has (about 5mm filed out of slots). What i did notice was that i had to file more out of one slot than the other 2 ? maybe the casing holes are out of alignment as well ??

I always wonder why there is so much adjustment to retard the ignition on all stator plates, I mean, it's never in the middle is it?

It's the elemec/AF mid-weight flywheels. I just swapped one out for a genuine SIL unit and was able to achieve 17 BTDC with room to spare on an SIL stator plate. I'll never buy another one again.