Scooterotica

thackers wrote:A 12v system usually gives better lights and easy starts, so if it starts up ok leave it as it is, forget all the fancy bulbs if the flywheel needs re-magnetising Jem Booth does. It then simply refit the flywheel (changing the woodruff key and washer) and job's a carrot

How do you check whether your flywheel needs re-magnetizing, is there anything I can do with a multimeter?

I just took it from your initial posting about no one re magnetizing that they needed doing, as for how to use a multimeter, see my other post i'm asking some kind soul to tell me how. Sorry

If it's just a bit rattley, why not just tighten everything up and save your money til next year when you do the engine. Do it all in one go. It'll save you duplicating work.

I've just bought 4 6v halogen bulbs from sr, they are half price at the mo...

I have also been running a 6v halogen headlight for a while. Am I correct in assuming that a12v halogen light will be a lot more powerful otherwise what is the point?

jazzdude wrote:I have also been running a 6v halogen headlight for a while. Am I correct in assuming that a12v halogen light will be a lot more powerful otherwise what is the point?

In short...Yes. I'm inclined to agree with advice above re saving your money until you can afford to do a proper job but I don't have the same fond memories of running points systems either on my scooters or in cars. Wires fell off the points and condensers, points gaps closed up, water got in and shorted things out and to top all that, a 2 candle power headlamp which imho is bordering on dangerous for modern road conditions. There might be ways of teasing decent power out of a 6v setup, J1MS or firekpd might be able to advise but my route to getting a decent headlamp would involve a BGM stator converted for dc working, an Indian flywheel, Wassel DC Regulator Rectifier, an alarm type sealed battery (can be quite small). This will give you a DC feed for the lights which will be 'backed up' by the battery so that the lights don't go out when the engine dies unexpectedly at a road junction Fit a BGM LED rear lamp and an H4 Xenon 55/60 watt headlamp bulb to a converted lamp holder. That will give you lights that will get you safely along unlit country lanes as a reasonable speed. A bit of fiddling but well worth it.

Also, several of the UK dealers sell BGM stuff including our own Corrado who posts on here (Just Lambretta) which might well be cheaper than buying from abroad

If I were you - stick to points as Fernando intended!

Doing the easy 6V to 12V for light wont make any real difference as you will not magically add any effect to the system; basically you'll half the ampere to double the voltage but the wattage will remain the same.

My SS180 which I just restored got a new loom and all solderings looked over and restored to factory standard (almost).

It has better light than many 12V converted scoots and seems to constantly surprise people as it's an urban myth that 6V isn't "enough" for good lighting.

It is true though if you would keep the amps constant and double the voltage, but to do that you'd need more coils and potentially a new flywheel. And you'd loose some engine power as it would go to produce the additional electricity.

Dont fix it if it aint broken but make sure you get a new loom into it as well as making sure you have good soldering and clean terminals everywhere and you'll be surprised about the amount of light it actually will output

Now that I have completely stripped the bike down and have started renovating components, I have found that I can't bring myself to discard a perfectly working original Ducati points stator and flywheel as the engine is to remain stock. So I have decided to keep the 6v points system and just add a 12v regulator to improve the lights, adding an LED rear light bulb.

Looking at the stator and flywheel, it is filthy and I am going to attack them with a can of degreaser and contact cleaner.

As I said before, the bike started on first kick everytime, hot or cold, so should I replace the points and condensor while the stator is out or leave them as they are? The felt strip looks dirty, and that looks easy to change. Also the 4 wires going up to the junction box look intact, although the insulation sleeve has split in a couple of places. I am not confident to go in there and change these wires as it looks tight in there so do you think it is wise just to mend the sleeving?

I don't think the light will be improved by going to 12V, you'll get half the amp and the watt output is still the same… Mine has an incredibly good light on 6V, people are often astonished, and it all comes down to good loom and everything in order. The 60's lighting, 6V or 12V, is rather to be seen than to properly lit up a countryside road in 100km/h… For that you'll need a bosch headlight with 50W+ H4 halogen...