Scooterotica

Good link Gaz.
The washer you have asked about is the one that fits under your clutch mate , surely you would have put that in when building it back up?

Ok, I never took I out when I pulled the clutch in first place. Just don't recall seeing it when I put it back in but I suppose I'd have noticed it wasn't there when I came to tighten castle nut. Thanks for all your help. It'll be next weekend before I get the chance to open the clutch up again. If I get stuck again, I'll post up some pics. Cheers

my two pennorth... make sure the bronze bush on the clutch is proud of the clutch cog by 1mm or so, same as on the back of a lammy clutch cog. you can grind the cog, or fit a SIP 1.5mm washer to space it away. the toothed autolube cog, or plain washer on the crank can be flipped over if it is worn . ive been fitting the SIP spacer washer to a few engines (they are about 4 quid) and it has cured a lot of snatchy/draggy clutches.

The spacer washer should have a square notch cut out, which slides over the woodruff key. I've found that some of them are very poorly made and the oil cog ones are a better fit. It has been said before the tighter this part fits the better.
Before fitting oil soaked corks and plates fit them into basket to make sure they fit in easily, if not file any of the ruff edges on basket and cork plates. In my experience this is the main problem with the vespa clutch. I would also change the large circlip and the gap is not near any of the basket openings, if you know what I mean.

are you sorted ???

Not yet. I'm working away during the week. Hope to have a look on Sunday.

goldeneye wrote:my two pennorth... the toothed autolube cog, or plain washer on the crank can be flipped over if it is worn .

Is that right? I have always been under the impression that the bevelled ID on the spacer/cog had to face the bearing: not to force the inner race and to set the clutch unit at the correct height on the crank, reference points main bearing inner track, primary gear cog and clutch housing/actuator. Surely with the bevel faced outwards clutch giblets would wander?

flipped them over before with no issues.

never had an issue either way

Right, took clutch out this afternoon and pulled it all apart again. Renewed bush, and put it all back together in a new basket, and spring cups (looked at the old ones again and there was a lot of rust pitting). I'd bought a new spacer washer too from SIP but when I looked at the old one it was virtually pristine so I popped it back in (it was also a good .2mm thicker than the SIP one).

I then put the exhaust and carb box/carb back on. I was all ready to test the clutch but couldn't get the engine to tick over

Half an hour later, after much messing with the carb and plug gap, I realised the problem ____ the tank was almost dry

Anyway, petrol in and took the old girl on a tour of local streets. Gear change is very precise and engine purrs along.

I love a happy ending