Thanks, yes that's exactly what I meant. I am very tempted by these light units and if I go ahead with it I would use a repro lamp holder/junction box and use a dremel to remove the lampfitting bits. Possibly even bond it to the back of the reflector?Minority wrote:I think what Coaster was refering to was all the other wires (not the lights) that use the normal headlamp connector as a junction box like this CEV one:
Halogen Headlamp
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yep, that was my thought...ArmandTanzarian wrote:Soldering everything is all very well but it can be a pain in the parts if you're working on the scoot and want to take stuff apart.
I have used multi connector blocks in the headset, or simply bullets if only a few connections
there is a guide on here to adding photos
or send them to me [it's jarv btw] and I can put them up
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That's what I was thinking. Must admit I like the sound of this upgrade, would love to see some pics if you can manage it. I found the easiest way to post pics is to upload them to something like "photobucket" and then post the IMG code on here.Donnie wrote:Just use bullet connectors surely and shrinkwrap, simples.
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Some of the bullets are interconnected but you couod use some of these http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... ullets.php 4.7mm Snap Connectors, types DS, TS and FS could be commoned up so all sockets are connected.Donnie wrote:Just use bullet connectors surely and shrinkwrap, simples.
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So basically we only think it might be an issue because we're used to the existing connector block hooking everything up, and in actual fact it's relatively easy to work around the new unit. Personally I'm having a hard time seeing any significant downside to any of this. 

when i was defence contractor for general dynamics we used these no crimping needed and reusable with the option to add more wire to the multi bock if needed in the future very very secure and quite cheap
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WAGO-spring-l ... 1c24880fd9
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WAGO-spring-l ... 1c24880fd9
We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm
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Me too Nev, wonder if itll be any better light wise than the H4 adapter bodged on to a normal block I have now.Doom Patrol wrote:So basically we only think it might be an issue because we're used to the existing connector block hooking everything up, and in actual fact it's relatively easy to work around the new unit. Personally I'm having a hard time seeing any significant downside to any of this.
Be interesting to see a "fitted" pic of the new unit though

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I'm thinking that where this new light unit might be good is by also fitting an HID lamp to it. Mark on here tried it a couple of years or so back but the ribbed lense spread the light beam too much. Apart from the huge increase in light output fromn an HID lamp, they also take less current than a halogen....or so I believe...Jarv, you had a hnd in the experiment too I seem to remember??purple_pill67 wrote:Me too Nev, wonder if itll be any better light wise than the H4 adapter bodged on to a normal block I have now.Doom Patrol wrote:So basically we only think it might be an issue because we're used to the existing connector block hooking everything up, and in actual fact it's relatively easy to work around the new unit. Personally I'm having a hard time seeing any significant downside to any of this.
Be interesting to see a "fitted" pic of the new unit though
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I had a play with an HID lamp, 35w in a GP unit, you can erradicate a lot of the "splayed" light by altering the position of the lamp into the lamp, ie further in or out.
think mine was drawing about 5A
think mine was drawing about 5A
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it does fail, hit them with it!!!