Scooterotica

Muttley McLadd wrote:However... if you take a stage of tune as the higher the number, the more peaky and unrideable it becomes, describing a GT as stage 7 is a little harsh.
My GT feels like the way a standard bike should feel. But it's faster, and not wheezy.

so yours would be a standard gt kit then lets call that a off the shelf stage one gt kit

Muttley McLadd wrote:However... if you take a stage of tune as the higher the number, the more peaky and unrideable it becomes, describing a GT as stage 7 is a little harsh.
My GT feels like the way a standard bike should feel. But it's faster, and not wheezy.

wheezy , was he the penguin on toy story ? i liked him.. zorg was a c unt though :bigsm:

http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/c ... ab053.html

http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/c ... ab055.html

Boothy_the_makem wrote:Are these kits still available ? . ive been weighing up which way to go with my special 125 engine,
if they are can i run it straight from the original crank as i believe they were good uns in the li spec 125. ? i dont want to buy a electronic kit only to have to change to a gp crank and kit,
ive got good compression on the engine and was gonna bolt it all back in, see how it runs for now and maybe slap a 175 kit on it later.
i have a 20mil dellorto and a 22
so whats the best set up for this kit, ( ie exhaust, carb etc ) 60mph will do me . trying to weigh up if it would be worth me spending compared to a 175 .

Yes they are still available, but you should never build them with an original crank. The minimum spec would be new GP crank, electronic ignition and a new PHBL25 carb. The time and effort sorting out an old carb out weighs any saving, buy a new carb and off load the old one on Ebay or a parts show.

A GP crank and electronic ignition is a sound investment, they can be used with almost anything. If your intention is NOT to change from points and your original Li crank I'd suggest you stay with a 175 kit.

A couple of years back I made an interesting formula for calculating a single ratio number for engine building and performance. I termed it as "bang for buck" formula. It took the cost of the kit plus parts and any modification costs (expansions/big carbs etc). It then took the peak BHP, the MPG and a standard reference engine BHP (li150 for small block and GP200 for big block). Based on these simple criteria you could determine two interesting numbers. The first is a straight "VFM" ratio number (value for money), ie what is the cost per single BHP. The second is a "VFM gain" ratio, this is slightly different in that it deducts the reference engine statistics and calculates the ratio on how much is gained over the original engine.

It is not surprising that the 175 Ebay kits give an excellent "VFM" ration however their "VFM gain" ratio is terrible because they deliver virtually no increase over standard unless they have been very significantly tuned, which then changes the cost of the engine (win on the swings, lose on the round-a-bouts).

If you're interested PM me and I'll send you a copy, be honest and add the data correctly and you get good data back.