Scooterotica

Need shortly to derust my exhaust before powder coating it.

Will wirebrush it down to bare metal, but could this be a quicker way? First rust converter, then wirebrushing...?

Wire brush first Victor. You need to get most of it off and be left with fine surface rust. I used a dry paintbrush to brush away any dust and then painted it with the rust convertor. Good luck!

Hello again,

So wirebrush first, then rust converter. Then how do you get the black stuff off? My aim is to powder coat with transparent coating leaving the bare metal impression...

So my thought was that the converter could speed up the process by eating some of the rust but that might not be the case...?

The black won't come off Victor. It's keyed to the metal. I've tried believe me and it's tough stuff. You can paint over it. But, if you want a clear finish I'm afraid there is no alternative. You will have to blast it back to bare metal.

i am currently taking the paint of my frame, i start with a wire brush on my grinder. it takes around two/three hours to remove the paint on a vespa frame using this method. i then use a smiler product called Krust. i liberally paint this into all the seems holes welded areas floor supports ect. this gives me a clean frame for my dry build.
i also use the Krust on an chips ect. on a painted frame to protect the bare metal until i get round to painting the affected areas, especially the stand bolts and this has worked well for ages now. i may have to apply more Krust if i leave it for to long before paint. but the solution does not seem to affect the painted areas.
gary

the point some are missing here is that the rust cure turns any rusty metal solid by chemical reaction. so you need to wire brush or buzz off with a fibral wheel in a drill etc any loose flakes,
otherwise your treating flaky bits of metal that will still be loose after you treat it. and leave un treated areas underneath.


you can flat off the black treated metal after to prime and paint, galvafroid is a good primer fer rusty s**t

I wouldn't waste your time and money with that stuff Neville.

Tried that years ago on a VW floorpan. Yes you get nice hard shell of converted rust but unless you take the utmost care underneath the untreated metal just carries on rusting and in time you get a nice crusty relic.

You'be be better off rubbing this a bit harder, getting all the rust off and painting.



You are far better off still handing that mudguard to your local metal finisher to powder coat.

Unless your after that crappy finish in which case you may as well slap on a dollop of Smootherite.

Well, that a possibility of course. It was really only an experiment. The test subject is just sitting there doing nothing at the moment with no immediate plans for it. It might well have turned to rust by the time I get around to it.

Prophetic words as it turns out. I've just rechecked the mudguard. Nice brownish tinge to it and rough to the touch. So yes, it's done bugger all to stop rust in actual fact. That's one experiment that must be put down to being a miserable failure.

The coaters I use won't powder coat a used exhaust, due to the process and the carbon in the exhaust. Powder Coat will also flake off the down tube, that part gets too hot.
Gary