Scooterotica

Darrell Taylor wrote:

stoneislandv8 wrote:When I rebuilt the Li engine I went for the Casa kit. To be fair to it round town and very twisty roads its great but I've upgraded to an ancillotti exhaust and 26mm dellorto with standard 125 box and 16T front sprocket and it'll cruise at late 50s but wringing it with a very long open road I reckon it'll be hitting low 60s...4th gear is like an overdrive. If thats what you want then it'll be fine but TBH the Casa kit is coming off soon to make way for a Muggy or Imola kit.

why not port the casa kit,its a very good kit but designed with the wrong port specs for your new requirements

Was told by the 'dyno man' that it wasn't worth bothering with, just ditch and go elsewhere.

stoneislandv8 wrote:

Darrell Taylor wrote:

stoneislandv8 wrote:When I rebuilt the Li engine I went for the Casa kit. To be fair to it round town and very twisty roads its great but I've upgraded to an ancillotti exhaust and 26mm dellorto with standard 125 box and 16T front sprocket and it'll cruise at late 50s but wringing it with a very long open road I reckon it'll be hitting low 60s...4th gear is like an overdrive. If thats what you want then it'll be fine but TBH the Casa kit is coming off soon to make way for a Muggy or Imola kit.

why not port the casa kit,its a very good kit but designed with the wrong port specs for your new requirements

Was told by the 'dyno man' that it wasn't worth bothering with, just ditch and go elsewhere.

OK, that's deleted the casa kit from my shortlist
Need to know more about the Gori kit, it does'nt even say the cc of the kit on the web site!

djh66 wrote:Last year I rebuild my Li150 special engine myself, using good seals, bearings, black mec gp crank, 12v electronic ignition etc. I fitted a cheapo ali 185 kit, 24mm pwk carb and big bore (now sterling) exhaust. it runs fine, better power than the 150, but I'd now like to fit a better kit, with more power but what are my options? Casa 186, Gt 186, mugello 185, etc. Recomendations & advice appreciated.
Dave

the casa as std wont be much different to what you have now,the gt is a great performer needing a bit more running in time than the mugello but will be worth it and the latest verions of the mugello have improved spec which is basically a tuned kit out of the box
so the gt for strongest low to mid power with strong top end plus the benefit of being a reed valve means for cleaner running and better economy
and mugello for strong low to mid power with strongest top but the imola(reed kit) is a fairer comparison to the gt kit
obviously the pipe in use will dictate the power and spread but the sterling may hold back both the kits
pwk 24 will work fine on both but i prefer it on a reed set up
gori is the equivalent of a tuned sil kit with a good piston which again are another good option

Darrell Taylor wrote:the imola(reed kit) is a fairer comparison to the gt kit

Hi Darrell, apart from reed valve, I'm interested in what way you feel the GT is comparable to the Imola as performance wise they're vastly different in their delivery of power

sorry if a little confusing my quote "imola(reed kit)" the virtues of it been reed was where i was drawing comparison

the gt kit has better low down pull and the imola a reed version of the mugello description

whats all this spheroid cast.about then.

Graphite and stuff

muppet

looked it up and found this

Spheroidal cast iron is a material that represents the major benefits of grey cast iron (such as low melting grade, good fluid and casting, perfect processing facility and a good cutting strength) as well as the advantages of steel in terms of engineering (high resistance, stability, flexibility, hot processing capability and hardening). In other words, spheroidal cast irons are special materials that due to their mechanical features, are identical with cast steel with cast iron characteristics in terms of manufacturing method.

Although both grey cast iron and spheroidal cast iron are the same based on chemical composition (except for sulfur and manganese), stiffening of both cast irons occurs highly different. Such difference also leads to the change in the material’s mechanical features.

The sole micro-structural difference between the spheroid cast iron and grey cast iron is the shape of the graphites. The sharp edges of the grey cast iron graphites lead to increased tension and cause a NOTCH EFFECT to some extent. This is the origin of any possible cracks caused by material load.

Also the matrix interruption that is caused by the graphite results in weak and crisp metals. The draw resistance of the metal matrix is around 60-100Kg/mm² while that of grey cast iron is 18 - 30kg/mm² dir. The conversion of the sharp edged graphite of the grey cast iron to a similar structure as the spheroid one will ensure less deformation of the matrix stability, thus, spheroid graphites which do not lead to the notch effect will increase the material resistance.

The draw resistance of spheroid cast iron is slightly higher than that of grey cast iron, which results in enhanced material resistance.

stoneislandv8 wrote:

Was told by the 'dyno man' that it wasn't worth bothering with, just ditch and go elsewhere.

i think with a good tune could be the best kit of all

Darrell Taylor wrote:

stoneislandv8 wrote:

Was told by the 'dyno man' that it wasn't worth bothering with, just ditch and go elsewhere.

i think with a good tune could be the best kit of all

Am quite happy to look at that as an option.........any pointers where to start??????