Scooterotica

Think The word of the EADCM is reaching the masses lol

mark wrote:full dc is the only way to go sadly if you want to power anything and you get great lights .
my setup even powers a tyre pump

^^ What Mark says....

can say now it charges my battery with ease and has enough power to run my egt and sat nav (battery was flat when first tryed it )

but the ac is no diffrent , heres what booklet says what comes with it
SENSE: to use the regullator the ac in and out has to be bridged, the special wiring loom is included in the delivery of every bgm pro reg, this so called sense function checks the power out against a ref value and keeps it stable,so the power output is constant even with alternating load.

so the way i read this my lights should not flicker and be stable without me reving it ?

So, I am very sorry for the following post. Electrics were never my favourite issue on any scooter. On the Lambretta hence to simple loom, okay though.

Concerning this topic, I don’t get the point right. And I don’t know what the problem exactly is. All the confusing English/german electric terms (that I totally need to get from a translation machine) doesn’t make answering easier.

Concerning the SENSE function, this is what the manufacturer has told us. It is a way to measure the consumption and when needed there is more current delivered. It is said that ideally this should not be directly bridged, instead it should be at the main consumer (headlight bulb). We found no difference to the small loom included to the delivery. I will requst more technical based info and post it asap.

Concerning the bgm stator plate this design was chosen, because of several reasons. The earth connection together gives a very low power loss, what is good to supply a high efficiency factor on the AC supply for the driving light. And set up correctly lots of customers (including ourselves) found better electrics than ever before.

The regulator gives the nice feature of DC power output. That is nice to plug in toys or even better convert to the AC and DC system found on the original Lambretta design for scooters delivered with battery. In the mean while we found (or learned) that a small capacitor gives more safety to run the toys if no battery is fitted. if a battery is fitted, i have attached our findings on this below. it is just a comparsion on ONE ignition fitted to using the bgm stator plate. all depending on other components fitted. a ignition row is only as strong as the weakest link. we had this on our test bed using avery battered low mgnetion old af style flywheel. but old looms with connectors green affect the reading and so on.

the commonly used vespa ducati 3-pin reg:


the one used on the vario:
[url=http://pixload.org/?v=erotica02.jpg]

the bgm one:


The main reason we are not (yet?) persuaded to do a DC stator plate is this: A DC ignition system is barely found on magneto ignitions system with power supply under 150 W. The reason for this is that the efficiency factor after regulated is very poor, especially at low revs. Another problem is reliability, because this type of ignition is famous for killing the field coil.

The table shows the face to face run of a modern Piaggio SKR 125 ignition - AC v DC:


So I hope this helps?

Whoever has bought a bgm regulator and is unhappy, can contact me or Mark or info@bgm-tuning.com (what is me again) and we can see what the problem is. Or if there is a problem at all.

Cheers

Philipp wrote:Concerning the SENSE function, this is what the manufacturer has told us. It is a way to measure the consumption and when needed there is more current delivered. It is said that ideally this should not be directly bridged, instead it should be at the main consumer (headlight bulb). We found no difference to the small loom included to the delivery. I will requst more technical based info and post it asap.

I agree with the manufacturer that the sense input is not designed to be bridged, feeding a regulated supply into it will not give an indication of consumption until the stator is overloaded, and at that point it has no more power/current to give. I believe this is why these regs do not have the link built in, the other input, normally, would be fed from a separate stator tapping (the voltage from this will then dictate the DC charge). But will be interested in more detailed info from the manufacturer.

Philipp wrote:Another problem is reliability, because this type of ignition is famous for killing the field coil.

A faulty rectifier can allow battery power to feed back into and damage the feed coils, but the likelihood of it happening are exactly the same with a half wave system when a battery is fitted. Although,touch wood, Ive never had this problem on any 12v DC scoot or car I've owned. Most of the problems associated with DC are caused by poor wiring skills, rather than the system itself.

firekdp wrote:

Philipp wrote:Concerning the SENSE function, this is what the manufacturer has told us. It is a way to measure the consumption and when needed there is more current delivered. It is said that ideally this should not be directly bridged, instead it should be at the main consumer (headlight bulb). We found no difference to the small loom included to the delivery. I will requst more technical based info and post it asap.

I agree with the manufacturer that the sense input is not designed to be bridged, feeding a regulated supply into it will not give an indication of consumption until the stator is overloaded, and at that point it has no more power/current to give. I believe this is why these regs do not have the link built in, the other input, normally, would be fed from a separate stator tapping (the voltage from this will then dictate the DC charge). But will be interested in more detailed info from the manufacturer.

No, it is wired the same way as did now. It is bridged at the main consumer, now it is bridged at the regulator. And it works, so hey!

firekdp wrote:

Philipp wrote:Another problem is reliability, because this type of ignition is famous for killing the field coil.

A faulty rectifier can allow battery power to feed back into and damage the feed coils, but the likelihood of it happening are exactly the same with a half wave system when a battery is fitted. Although,touch wood, Ive never had this problem on any 12v DC scoot or car I've owned. Most of the problems associated with DC are caused by poor wiring skills, rather than the system itself.

This are our findings on the automatic ignition systems. To compare car electrics (are these DC?) is misleading and has not much to do with scooter electrics. Then there is the point that DC does not make more power than AC. More the opposite from more power. But everyone to its own!

Cheers Philipp

Philipp wrote:No, it is wired the same way as did now. It is bridged at the main consumer, now it is bridged at the regulator. And it works, so hey!Philipp

Well on that we'll have to disagree. As in your test you also got a varitronic one to work on a BGM stator, if you look at the wiring for the vari one it's clearly designed to use a separate stator feed, for the DC side, not bridged to the regulated supply. The fact that it still works doesn't mean it is working as it was designed ie. with a sense function. Why bother with the more complex stator winding needed for this function if that was the case?
Still, not going to argue with you, I'll wait for the forthcoming tech info from the manufacturer.
Cheers Kev.


As for the AC versus DC how many that have converted to DC want to go back to the more powerful AC system?

As for the AC versus DC how many that have converted to DC want to go back to the more powerful AC system?

there are more dc converts every day and none to my knowledge have gone back to the inferior(i truly belive this) as lighting

mark wrote:

As for the AC versus DC how many that have converted to DC want to go back to the more powerful AC system?

there are more dc converts every day and none to my knowledge have gone back to the inferior(i truly belive this) as lighting

Me neither and with a batttery fitted to your full DC system you will not loose your lights if your egine cuts out at night.

^^^As above, been using 12v DC since the early eighties, albeit with converted points stators (for reliability ).
Although a small amount of power is lost in rectification, the addition of a battery makes far more efficient use of stator power.