MB Reed Block for Piston Port.
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When i had it dyno'd first I had a PM pipe on and we only did one run without the air filter on and dont think there was anywhere near as much spit back as I have now with the JL3 but not 100% sure as it was 4-5 months ago. Maybe it is the pipe hopefully Diablo will sort it out this week. FOCKIN SCOOTERS££££££££££££
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What re working ? mine doesn't rev like it did prior to reed valve .Im still running the Ancilotti and 24mm TM,coaster wrote: I still think it's a blinding kit though, a reed valve will cure the spitback but it's not just a bolt on job, the cylinder will need to be re-worked otherwise you will loose a lot of top end.
Larger inlet port & piston cut and modded (similar to Jason frosts in his link) this will let the port breath better & for longer...
Have you enlarged the inlet port height or is it still standard.lozmondo wrote:I is running a Jap pison with windows, has a boost port. I was thinking it was over geared but its running LI125 17 tooth front ?
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Enlarged and matched to reed block.
Prior to new piston and reed block it was a standard SR piston..with added slap!!..running around 175 exhaust 150 inlet 124 transfer.
I am guessing the now shorter barrel for the Jap piston has dropped the exhaust timing? it runs a 60mm 107mm rodded crank. It has been an engine developed over time in stages, hence the mix of components and just to see what could be achieved with these kits .
It pulls like a train, just runs out of steam a bit ??
Prior to new piston and reed block it was a standard SR piston..with added slap!!..running around 175 exhaust 150 inlet 124 transfer.
I am guessing the now shorter barrel for the Jap piston has dropped the exhaust timing? it runs a 60mm 107mm rodded crank. It has been an engine developed over time in stages, hence the mix of components and just to see what could be achieved with these kits .
It pulls like a train, just runs out of steam a bit ??
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Jason, if it isn't a daft question, I'm using the 6 petal malossi petals and have been running it with the carb in a horizontal position. I'm now wondering if it is supposed to be the other way up to provide a downdraft but it would mean the PHBH being at a sidaeways angle, is that right do you knowjason frost wrote:Done a few even have one on my own bikesome pictures here http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 0853187888

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Colin
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Do you mean turn the rubber upside down ?coaster wrote:Jason, if it isn't a daft question, I'm using the 6 petal malossi petals and have been running it with the carb in a horizontal position. I'm now wondering if it is supposed to be the other way up to provide a downdraft but it would mean the PHBH being at a sidaeways angle, is that right do you knowjason frost wrote:Done a few even have one on my own bikesome pictures here http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 0853187888
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Colin
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Yes, that's what I meant, with the rubber inverted you get a direct path straight into the cylinder. My 28 PHBH will fit but would need to sit at a very twisted angle as iut's quite a tall carb and the toolbox and long range tank get in the wayjason frost wrote:Do you mean turn the rubber upside down ?

I've since looked at Mr B's blog on Facebook and all the pictures on there show the rubber fitted in the horizontal position so I guess I was right in the first place

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colin
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Loz,lozmondo wrote:I is running a Jap pison with windows, has a boost port. I was thinking it was over geared but its running LI125 17 tooth front ?
What piston are you running, and how much was the barrel shortened?
I am running a SR175 ported by Geoff Stephens at present. Crank is 60mm Mec with 107 rod. Have a homemade reed valve manifold with MB cage/rubber i want to use on it and thought RD350 piston may be the way to go. Do not want to rip engine apart to re-rod.
Cheers, Andy.