The last Thing, it's really stiff

[Bilko]

Went out this morning to have another look.

Here's where I'm now at:

Put it in gear, pull in the clutch and it's still clunking through the gears. I tighten the clutch and it almost works. But you can't kick it over. The kickstart just slips down.

Whatever I do the clutch is so stiff it that to change gear you'd almost need two hands.

I'm as good as beat as I've no idea what's wrong or what to do.

[Honeymonster]

Don't know if this will help, might be worth a try.
I tried running a 6 plate clutch with just 1 mm clearance between the plates when compressed but it wasn't enough to get a clean disengage for changing gear, so I increased the clearance to 1.5mm with a thinner top plate and it now works ok, still gives out a mighty clunk when engaging gear for the first time after a day or two of storage but ok after that. I'm using surflex standard cork plates, thin steels, standard indian springs and plastic lined cable, genuine one finger operation, even for a CAD designer.

[Bilko]

Thanks for the reply.

I have plenty of clearance when the clutch is compressed.

The last thing I can think of before having to fork out £300 for a different make of clutch.

Is there a faint possibilty of one of the parts being faulty. ie: machined wrong?

[dapper]

Like I said Rob, check the big circlip groove in the spider. There have been people with the groove machined at the wrong height. Double check that the brass plunger is sitting in the side casing the right way round too. Good Luck mate.

[soullad]

Hi,
I think you need to take apart and have a good look. With the clutch spider in your hand (don't bother with the springs) try to move the pressure plate up and down making sure theres no resistance anywhere. Then add your plates one by one and keep checking they move up and down freely. If all is Ok here then check your top ring circlip groove as suggested and make sure the circlip is the same thickness as the groove.
If you are running a multiplate clutch but standardish crownwheel / spider lengths then you may need to fit shorter springs. There are regular length, intermediate and short springs now on the market. If you fit too long springs they will become coil bound when the clutch is fully built and it'll never work. Try an intermediate set to check?
Finally check pressure plate set-up and once built make sure the actuating arm is at 90 degrees to the chaincase gasket face when you take up the slack in the cable itself, prior to operation.
Hope this has helped?

[Bilko]

Thanks for the reply.

Checked pressure plate movement as well as plates on the spider. All good.

You say I may need to fit shorter springs?

When I took the springs from my old muggy 225 engine. I found they were longer than the Cam Lam ones?

[Bilko]

I had no idea what to do, so I put in the longer springs. The clutch felt better, BUT....

When I kick it over, it's like I've over tightened the clutch as the kickstart just slips down without engaging, but if I put it in gear and pull the clutch in. The clutch doesn't work?

[soulsurfer]

Assuming this is a GP setup, you don't have a nipple on the top of the pressure plate/flange do you?
Actually, it may help if you post some pictures of the components, clutches can be fiddly but rarely are they a lost cause, this is fixable even if it means identifying a mismatched part

[Bilko]

No nipple

The marker pen was to check if the kickstart rubbing

[dapper]

Rob, with your clutch compressor, how far down to you have to depress the clutch before you have good clearance between the corks/plates? Also, as has been said, is your actuating lever at right angles to the side casing when the clutch cable is connected? Are you definitely sure the brass plunger is sitting on the bottom of the clutch rod question mark the right way (remember, it can fit two ways, but only one is correct). Looking at your photo, does that bottom cork have clearance to sink into the rear sprocket (it's a bit difficult to tell from that angle). I'd strip it apart (again ) and check that the bottom cork will definitely sit lower that the first set of gear teeth all round. The only other thing I can think of is thinner steels. Don't give up yet mate.