Hey,
My scooters headlight is not as bright as it should be at idle (1300 rpm). Picks up with rpm. Bulb is good. Bgm 120w stator and bgm flywheel.
White earth to mag housing: 0.4 ohms
White to green: 504
White to red: 112
Do I interpret that as I need to clean my stator ground wire up?
Sticky says they should be:
- less than 0.1
- 450-540
- 90-120
Tx
David
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Help Understanding stator test results.
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carpe scooter diem
1974 Rally 200
1965 Li150
1963 TV175
1974 Eibar Jet200
carpe scooter diem
1974 Rally 200
1965 Li150
1963 TV175
1974 Eibar Jet200
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The answer to that is maybe.
Cleaning up connections is always a good idea.
0.4 ohms might be down to your meter not being zero’d properly
Unless your running dc the dim-bright with RPM is normal
What’s more likely to be causing the issue is poor earths in the headset and from the engine to the frame.
Cleaning up connections is always a good idea.
0.4 ohms might be down to your meter not being zero’d properly
Unless your running dc the dim-bright with RPM is normal
What’s more likely to be causing the issue is poor earths in the headset and from the engine to the frame.
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- Posts: 225
- Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:41 am
- Main scooter: Early Eibar Jet 200
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Thanks! Tonight's job is connection cleaning.Meds1 wrote:The answer to that is maybe.
Cleaning up connections is always a good idea.
0.4 ohms might be down to your meter not being zero’d properly
Unless your running dc the dim-bright with RPM is normal
What’s more likely to be causing the issue is poor earths in the headset and from the engine to the frame.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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carpe scooter diem
1974 Rally 200
1965 Li150
1963 TV175
1974 Eibar Jet200
carpe scooter diem
1974 Rally 200
1965 Li150
1963 TV175
1974 Eibar Jet200
- Monty
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Personally I don't have a separate earth from the engine, the frame is the earth but I do tend to daisy chain things like cdi mount, regulator rear light and always have a good one on the headlight. what you are describing is normal an AC system, (a stator with a 120W output No such thing IMO) and most regulators are rated at 80W anyway. If you don't want flicker go DC with a battery then fit LEDs for as much as you can. worth looking at the contacts on the back of the bulb or bending them in a bit, a dab of extra solder on the 2 contacts of the bulb often helps
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If you have one of these in a drill, https://www.amazon.co.uk/BQLZR-Shape-Br ... iy&sr=1-19 you may have one already. Push it into the threaded hole - very quickly the brush becomes pointy and neatly cleans all crap - oxides, rust and paint away from around the thread. Only takes a few seconds. Only costs a few bob.
Get some dielectric grease to smear lightly on all the contacts. I just use copaslip, but supposedly the dielectric is better.
I have done it like this for years so my car, garden equipment or bikes don't have this sort of problems (ooh errr!) but I come across lots of other people's that do and need doing.
Get some dielectric grease to smear lightly on all the contacts. I just use copaslip, but supposedly the dielectric is better.
I have done it like this for years so my car, garden equipment or bikes don't have this sort of problems (ooh errr!) but I come across lots of other people's that do and need doing.
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Just to throw this out there...
Is the magnetism good in the BGM flywheel? I only ask as I did a comparison between an indian flywheel and a BGM flywheel and the Indian flywheel won hands down. Using a spark plug gap tester, the indian flywheel put out a lot bigger spark also. Stands to reason if the magnetism is low in your BGM flywheel, the lights will be poor at idle.
Is the magnetism good in the BGM flywheel? I only ask as I did a comparison between an indian flywheel and a BGM flywheel and the Indian flywheel won hands down. Using a spark plug gap tester, the indian flywheel put out a lot bigger spark also. Stands to reason if the magnetism is low in your BGM flywheel, the lights will be poor at idle.
That's not going anywhere...