As there was a complaint about lack of pictures and discussion, here are some pictures of my new brake.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Semi hydraulic inboard brake
-
- registered user
- Posts: 4823
- Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 9:50 pm
- Main scooter: Lambretta
- Location: Lanarkshire
- Contact:
Which hub is that?
Drum or disc links?
I like your thinking on the cable fixing I was thinking of doing something similar with a pull type master cylinder.
Drum or disc links?
I like your thinking on the cable fixing I was thinking of doing something similar with a pull type master cylinder.
"Our dilemma is that we hate change and love it at the same time; what we really want is for things to remain the same but get better."
-
- registered user
- Posts: 859
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:34 am
- Main scooter: lambretta li 125
- Location: Tyne and Wear
- Contact:
Disc links from mb. I know you can get cheaper but I'm fed up of buying sub standard gear.rosscla wrote:Which hub is that?
Drum or disc links?
I like your thinking on the cable fixing I was thinking of doing something similar with a pull type master cylinder.
The hub is part of a complete inboard disc from beedspeed. Quite a lot of fettling. I opened up the holes etc. Also, some minor parts were missing like the screw for the fixed pad. I replaced the original pads with sintered but had to skim 2 or 3mm from each one so that they'd fit.
Those rope grips work better than I'd expected.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
-
- registered user
- Posts: 859
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:34 am
- Main scooter: lambretta li 125
- Location: Tyne and Wear
- Contact:
Good point. The adjuster screw is slotted so I left it in a position where The slot is out of contact with the inner. I'm not sure how to resolve your point though. I'll take a look tomorrow afternoon when the lager wears off. Remember this is hidden away, so if it fails it'll be a rather unpleasant surprise.Muppet wrote:dont like the angle of ya cable coming out of adjuster screw; it’ll rub the inner cable cable am thinkin it cud fray were it rubs
All suggestions welcome.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
- coaster
- registered user
- Posts: 3125
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:35 pm
- Location: London and Norfolk
- Contact:
I can see what Muppet means but that looks like its in a 'relaxed' position, I would imagine that the tension pulls it straighter when being operated or are those thimble clamps rubbing on the cylinder and holding the cable at that 'cocked' angle? Generous dollop of grease will help.hendy wrote: ↑Sun Apr 15, 2018 7:44 pmGood point. The adjuster screw is slotted so I left it in a position where The slot is out of contact with the inner. I'm not sure how to resolve your point though. I'll take a look tomorrow afternoon when the lager wears off. Remember this is hidden away, so if it fails it'll be a rather unpleasant surprise.Muppet wrote:dont like the angle of ya cable coming out of adjuster screw; it’ll rub the inner cable cable am thinkin it cud fray were it rubs
All suggestions welcome.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
- coaster
- registered user
- Posts: 3125
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:35 pm
- Location: London and Norfolk
- Contact:
I also have one of these brakes and did the same mods as you except that the Scootopia sintered pads needed nothing more than rubbing the paint off the edges to make sure they didn't stick. Mine uses an external master cylinder but it works very well, the MOT guy got it to lock up on his rollers!!
-
- registered user
- Posts: 859
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:34 am
- Main scooter: lambretta li 125
- Location: Tyne and Wear
- Contact:
First of the 2 pictures shows the cable under maximum tension. Second with no tension at all. In both pictures it's rubbing against the starboard side of the adjuster.coaster wrote:I can see what Muppet means but that looks like its in a 'relaxed' position, I would imagine that the tension pulls it straighter when being operated or are those thimble clamps rubbing on the cylinder and holding the cable at that 'cocked' angle? Generous dollop of grease will help.hendy wrote: ↑Sun Apr 15, 2018 7:44 pmGood point. The adjuster screw is slotted so I left it in a position where The slot is out of contact with the inner. I'm not sure how to resolve your point though. I'll take a look tomorrow afternoon when the lager wears off. Remember this is hidden away, so if it fails it'll be a rather unpleasant surprise.Muppet wrote:dont like the angle of ya cable coming out of adjuster screw; it’ll rub the inner cable cable am thinkin it cud fray were it rubs
All suggestions welcome.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
If I slot the mounting holes of the mounting bracket it will align so that it makes no (or very little) contact with the adjuster.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
-
- registered user
- Posts: 859
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:34 am
- Main scooter: lambretta li 125
- Location: Tyne and Wear
- Contact:
Reall? I couldn't even get the master cylinder to sit flush!coaster wrote:I also have one of these brakes and did the same mods as you except that the Scootopia sintered pads needed nothing more than rubbing the paint off the edges to make sure they didn't stick. Mine uses an external master cylinder but it works very well, the MOT guy got it to lock up on his rollers!!
In the second picture you can see the difference between the pads.
Bad batch?
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
- coaster
- registered user
- Posts: 3125
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:35 pm
- Location: London and Norfolk
- Contact:
Mine cylinder sits flush but I did have an issue with the piston sticking now I think of it but I noticed it before I fitted it. Had a bit of trouble getting the piston out so that I could give it a rub with some wet & dry. Is you piston going all the way in?